• Formulating

  Help with anhydrous lip mask formulation

  Posted by IDSAMY on October 13, 2020 at 1:20 pm

  Hi, 

  I’m working in a lip mask formulation, my benchmarking is Laneige’s
  sleeping mask ttps://www.sephora.com/product/lip-sleeping-mask-P420652

  There is no separation problem or smell changes,
  however, after 1 month aprox in stability (light/45 °C) the lip mask
  turned to yellowish.

  I’ve tried removing Dragon’s blood active, but it was no
  conclusive. Any recommendations?

  Left: stability problem                          Right: Control in dark room

  INCI	% (p/p)
  Diisostearyl malate	30.00
  Polyisobutene (Permethyl 104A)	20.00
  Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2	15.00
  Microcrystalline wax	6.40
  Octyldodecanol	6.00
  Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax	5.50
  Tridecyl Trimellitate	2.75
  VP/Hexadecene Copolymer	2.00
  Dimethicone	0.80
  BHT	0.10
  Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	0.10
  Disteardimonium Hectorite	5.00
  Propilencarbonate	1.00
  Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Croton Lechleri Resin Extract	3.00
  Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil	1.00
  Bidens Pilosa Extract (and) Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (and) Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil (and) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil	1.00
  (CI 73360) (CI 19140)	0.05
  Vanilla flavour	0.30

  IDSAMY replied 4 years, 6 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
• 4 Replies

• 

  OldPerry

  Professional Chemist / Formulator

  October 13, 2020 at 1:36 pm

  Increase BHT level or try a different antioxidant.

• 

  lewhitak

  Member

  October 13, 2020 at 10:23 pm

  I am not sure if it would apply here, but vanilla fragrances can cause a brown discoloration to develop in formulas. Have you tried a sample without the vanilla?

• 

  IDSAMY

  Member

  October 14, 2020 at 6:07 pm

  Hello Lewhitak, Thanks for your advice, I will try it, but I don’t have choice, that flavour is the only one that panelists chose for the product.

• 

  IDSAMY

  Member

  October 14, 2020 at 6:11 pm

  Perry said:

  Increase BHT level or try a different antioxidant.

  Thanks Perry, I will try it at 0.2 and 0.25%, also I’m going to change Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate (Oxynex ST liquid).

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