Formulating

Help me with this “natural” body scrub

Posted by Karo_lina on March 16, 2022 at 10:37 am

Hi,
I’m making sugar body scrub. This is what i have so far:

39,25

Sugar

16,36

Shea butter

13,78

Almond oil

1,85

CAPB (30%)

0,92

sodium cocoyl isethionate

10,09

Glycerin

4,62

Glyceryl Stearate SE (also tried Olivem 1000 )

4,10

Cetyl alcohol

4,68

squalane

4,34

Grape seed oil

the texture is pleasant, but after rinsing with water, it does not leave the slippery / oily layer on the skin that I expected.
The client wants a completely “natural cosmetic”

. After looooooong negotiations he agreed that I can use Olivem 1000, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, sodium cocoyl isethionate and CAPB

Is there anything that can help this formulation without adding synthetic compounds? As for me i think that dimethicon , triglicerydes or isopropyl pamitate would do the job, but the client don’t want them in his scrub

justaerin replied 2 years, 8 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies

10 Replies

Abdullah

Member
March 16, 2022 at 11:33 am

I even don’t like the feeling of 1% Shea butter in a product. You have 16%.

If you want oily layer, use some glyceryl oleate in your product.

Does your client like preservative?
Karo_lina

Member
March 16, 2022 at 12:04 pm

glyceryl oleate will not work - to synthetic , as for the preservative, only the ones that are ecocerted. In my lab I have:

Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl alcohol, Salicilic acid, Hexa-2,4-dienoic acid (sorbic acid), Glycerol
Karo_lina

Member
March 16, 2022 at 12:05 pm

Abdullah said:

I even don’t like the feeling of 1% Shea butter in a product. You have 16%.

If you want oily layer, use some glyceryl oleate in your product.

Does your client like preservative?

Do you think that Cocoa butter will be better as a substitute for shea ?
OldPerry

Member
March 16, 2022 at 12:15 pm

You (or your client) may just have to face the fact that cosmetics are not natural & if you restrict your formulating to inferior ingredients, you get inferior performing products. You may already be as good as you can get.

Also how is cetyl alcohol & sodium cocoyl isethionate natural?
Karo_lina

Member
March 16, 2022 at 12:20 pm

Perry said:

You (or your client) may just have to face the fact that cosmetics are not natural & if you restrict your formulating to inferior ingredients, you get inferior performing products. You may already be as good as you can get.

Also how is cetyl alcohol & sodium cocoyl isethionate natural?

I fully agree with you. But it is the client who pays me and I have to create according to his order, no matter what I think about it
Abdullah

Member
March 16, 2022 at 1:43 pm

Coco feels better than shea.

How is glyceryl oleate less natural than those ingredients that you are using?

What is your client?
Chemist

Shopkeeper
Business person that want to start cosmetic business

Or just one person who wants this product for her own use?
Then you can find a good solution for that accordingly

Also ask your client that what is his definition of natural. This way you know what types of ingredients you can use?
Karo_lina

Member
March 16, 2022 at 1:50 pm

My client is a woman with too much money and zero knowledge about chemistry. She wants to start a beauty business. As for the synthetic ingredients, she didn’t want to say how she chose those specific ingredients, but it’s very possible she chose the names from the first google link.
Microformulation

Member
March 16, 2022 at 2:07 pm

It sometimes helps early on to define and codify their “natural” standards. Nearly every new client in this Marketspace leads with it has to be “natural.” We explain in the initial call that “natural” is a useless term. We generally use plant-based {mineral for SPF, colorants, etc.} materials minimally processed and reference the COSMOS allowable processes.

While hardly perfect, this better approach makes the R&D process much quicker, It also avoids the inevitable emails where they will try to analyze each and every ingredient, without any Chemistry knowledge and with EWG as their guide.
Abdullah

Member
March 16, 2022 at 3:32 pm

Karo_lina said:

My client is a woman with too much money and zero knowledge about chemistry. She wants to start a beauty business. As for the synthetic ingredients, she didn’t want to say how she chose those specific ingredients, but it’s very possible she chose the names from the first google link.

That is a good thing because in Google you can find anything about anything.

Just write is glyceryl oleate natural? Then it will show you results that yes it is natural.
If it didn’t show like this, write natural glyceryl oleate or any other ingredient and it will show you only results that says that ingredient is natural.
justaerin

Member
March 17, 2022 at 12:38 am

From trying similar, though anhydrous but for the sugar, scrubs and chasing what sounds like a similar skin feel, you could try adding a few % each stearyl alcohol and stearic acid in place of some of the liquid oils.

But I will also say that stirring in 1% (of final product) granular SCI with the sugar took my ~50% sugar to ~50% anhydrous with emulsifying wax oil blend from kind of greasy to clean but comfortable rinse-off. Perhaps including the SCI is too much surfactant to keep the feel you’re looking for?