• Formulating

  Help me with an eye cream formula

  Posted by Heath0o7 on May 21, 2024 at 6:38 am

  Hi all,<div>

  I’d like to make an eye cream that targets dark/under eye circles and reduce puffiness, but I need some help please as I’ve never formulated using vitamin c before.

  The formula I’ve come up with is:

  Distilled water

  0.3% GLDA

  2.5% Niacinamide

  0.5% Caffeine powder

  2.5% Glycerin

  2.5% Propanediol

  0.5% Hydroxyethyl Cellulose

  0.25% PCP

  Phase B:

  2.3% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

  3.5% Montanov202

  2.5% Cetyl Alcohol

  3% Coco-Caprylate

  3% Myristyl Myristate

  3% Mineral Oil

  Cool Down Phase

  1% Phenonip

  1% Dimethicone-6cst

  Ascorbic Acid

  0.1% ROE

  Fragrance oil

  Lactic acid

  The things I need help with are:

  1. What would be a good starting percentage for vitamin c in an eye cream? Like 7% or less

  2. Tips on dissolving ascorbic acid? Should I use glycerin or what would you recommend?

  3. I don’t have ferulic acid, how can I make the vitamin c as stable as possible?

  4. What should the pH be for the vitamin c to work best?

  5. Since I’m using mineral oil to lock in hydration, should I get rid of the dimethicone?

  </div>

  Trytryagain replied 6 months, 3 weeks ago 2 Members · 1 Reply

  • ascorbic acid
  • dark circles
  • depuff
  • eye cream
  • under eye
  • vitamin c
• 1 Reply

• 

  Trytryagain

  Member

  May 25, 2024 at 3:01 pm

  1. What would be a good starting percentage for vitamin c in an eye cream? Like 7% or less

  The skin around the eyes is thinner and more sensitive than other areas on the face, personally I would keep the LAA 5-7%

  2. Tips on dissolving ascorbic acid? Should I use glycerin or what would you recommend?

  It’s water soluble, you could use a portion of water from phase A to dissolve in and add at cool down

  3. I don’t have ferulic acid, how can I make the vitamin c as stable as possible?

  If you really can’t get Ferulic Acid, you should add mixed tocopherols as well. Research other antioxidants that can replace the ferulic acid. Also you could reduce water content by adding in solvents like glycols

  4. What should the pH be for the vitamin c to work best? When using LAA 3.5 (check for conflicts with your other ingredients)

  5. Since I’m using mineral oil to lock in hydration, should I get rid of the dimethicone? I’m a huge fan of silicones, I almost never leave them out (for sensory appeal)

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