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Help!
I am really hoping I can get a second opinion and some education.
I have been developing a new product with a reputable lab in South Korea however some of the feedback I am getting on my requests is confusing.
#1 Optical modifiers- We currently have a touch of mica in the formulation for a “glow” effect, however I do not want Mica in there and am pushing for Titanium dioxide as I heard it can give the skin a filtered effect. They are saying this cannot be done as it will dry out the formula and leave a grainy effect on skin. Is this true? And if so can you suggest an ingredient for this problem?
#2 Encapsulation- We are trying to get our actives encapsulated (Caffeine and Peptides) They are saying this cannot be done in our formula with little explanation, it is a balm/stick Product. Can someone clarify why or what we can ask for? We want this done to lower sensitivities (as it is an eye product), keep ingredients stable and have them more evenly dispensed for perfect dosing with every application.
#3 Hydration- Our second product is a wash of cleanser, it works amazing however it has an effect that feels drying after, An effect similar to castor oil, where it is wet but not penetrating into the skin if that makes sense? They’ve added in all the common hydrators like Niacinamide and Hyluronic acid but we are at a crossroads where they have no innovation or solutions to this problem, can anyone suggest something?
I really really appreciate and help, education or feedback on this project!
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4 Replies
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hi there
1; Do you want a Scatter effect so that wrinkles will look finer and your face smoother? if so Titanium dioxide is probably not the right thing to take, it will make a very dry feeling on the skin and the withe residue will probably not match any skin type as far as I know only nanomaterial has some power in that direction and there are more efficient ingredients out there. I would suggest using something like a Slicia or a Cellulose type that promotes that kind of effect if you don’t want to mention a mica on the skin.
2: if you have a stick formulation is it an emulsion or a Fett stick? if it is a Fett Stick encapsulation is not possible because encapsulation happens mostly in Liposome Complex and they need water to Form. for a “hard Emulsion,” it could be achieved but it is not a very easy task, and need someone with experience to get it done. although there is no guarantee that the Capsulation will survive your heating phase to form the stick.
3: A cleanser that feels dry is taking away the fat of the skin which is something you want to do with that kind of product. hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide will not give an immediate effect on the skin it will help in the long run if not washed off (and most will be washed off). I would suggest changing the type of surfactant you are using to a milder one like glutamate surfactant or amino acid surfactant they are more expensive but they are not as drying to the skin. or add a film former with a nice touch like a Silk protein even if it is a very expensive ingredient to just wash off and only leaf a little residue. .
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Thank you so much for all this information, it was so helpful!
May I ask, is there anything beneficial for skin or hair health in a wash off product like a makeup remover? Or is it best to just stick to cleansing performance!
Also if you are knowledgeable on this, are topical DHT blockers effective? We were thinking about using green tea as it can double as an antioxidant and help with oxidative stress.
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Agree with what is written thus far.
3. Ingredients that are water soluble will show little to no benefit in a cleanser as they simply wash away. Oils wash away also. Perhaps a polymer like polyquaternium 10 might help but the best answer is to use a less drying surfactant or reduce the levels of what you are currently using.
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Normally in Makeup removers, all ingredients that are added additionally to a product besides the surfactant are mostly marketing claims. Every oil will be already encapsulated in the surfactant and not settle or stay on the skin every water soluble ingredient will be washed away with water afterward and only a small residue will stay on the skin. I myself prefer to have clean skin after makeup remover and then put on a good cream to rehydrate and protect the skin. Therefore i Prefer milder surfactants like i said Glutamate or Amino acid ones because they don’t sting or leave a itching feeling like SLES or SLS
sadly i don’t know a lot about DHT blockers and their efficiency very well but as far as my knowledge goes it is a very long-term use necessary and you need special treatment components for that. I found this article Everything You Need to Know About DHT Blockers | hims (forhims.com)
Maybe it helps it’s not super scientific and you probably need to compare with other more science-based pages but it gives a good first impression of what can be possible and what is marketing only.
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