Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hello i’m New here please help😉

  • Hello i’m New here please help😉

    Posted by Stella on September 21, 2022 at 7:29 am

    Thks for accept me in this forum and sorry for my bad english m’y country is speak french

    Please I am writing a new formula for a moisturizing lip balm that lightens dark lips please I need your advice here is my formula

    Petrolleum jelly 36%
    Mineral oil  30%
    Paraffine wax 10%
    Lanoline 2%
    Tocopherol 0.5%
    Salyciliq 0.5%
    Cocoa butter 3%
    Glycolique acid 8%
    Ascorbic acid 5%
    Koji. Acid 5%

    Pls am waiting your advice

    Stella replied 1 year, 4 months ago 6 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • gordof

    September 21, 2022 at 11:19 am

    hi there I don’t think that an effect like in the picture is possible at all without color pigments (lipstick) 

    in general, you could use skin lightening raw materials but I am not sure if they are even possible to use so close to the mouth and lips because of the danger of eating them you need to check your country’s regulations there very well. 

    but you use already some of them with the koji acid ascorbic acid and glcolique acide. ( in general, I think your acid concentration is way too high whatever your goal may be it properly will lead to skin irritation in that concentration)

  • Stella

    September 21, 2022 at 12:31 pm

    Thank you sir Do you suggest that I reduce the percentages of these lighteners?

  • gordof

    September 22, 2022 at 7:34 am


    If you are using that high amounts of acid in your formulation I would think it may cores skin irritation over a longer time. although the taste of the product will be very sour… if this high concentration is needed for Effectiveness I can not comment on it due to not having that much experience in lip lightening. but after all, it seems to me just too high. 

    do you have a benchmark ? or a Formulationen you orientated yourself on? 

    It would be easier to see if there are some indications for the amount of acid. added. 

  • pharma

    September 22, 2022 at 7:27 pm
    Salut Stella,
    My guess is that the product said company used wasn’t acutally a cosmetic one but Photoshop… both pictures look like the colour hues have been heavily altered. ;)
    I’m all with @Gordof regarding potential irritation.
    Your product is anhydrous… this is good regarding stability of ascorbic and kojic acid but might result in a very uncomfortable, sandy feel and punctual irritation where the crystals dissolve on skin. I imagine the balm to be more like a mask which should be removed after maybe 20 minutes or so.
    Will it work? If your genetic background is adapted to high solar irradiation, then it’s going to be difficult to do anything effective without causing harm. Maybe think about all the white tourists after a day at the beach. I’d rather have some natural darker tan than look like a cooked lobster (honestly, this is a biased view of mine; I live in Switzerland and the current beauty standard of our youths is different: hourglass curves… impossible to achieve with European genetics). Be happy the way you are because everyone (well, most…) is beautiful the way he/she/it is (or could be, at least on the inside)! Sorry for being a bit sarcastic.
    Meilleurs salutations et un très belle soirée à toi!
  • bill_toge

    September 23, 2022 at 9:52 pm
    I agree with the previous respondents - that’s a photoshop job
    using ingredients like that on the lips is a dangerous and very, very slow process with no guarantee of any results; plus, glycolic and ascorbic acids are insoluble in oil, meaning they’ll have little or no effect
  • squinny

    September 24, 2022 at 12:57 am

    Sorry I dont know why you would bother. What’s wrong with a nice shade of lipstick - They come in very nice shades of pink. Agree with Pharma totally. I have lovely (note sarcasm) Irish skin due to genetics and even though I dont like my freckly skin living in Australia in the tropics not much I can do about it except do all I can with Suncream and wearing protective clothing - what I would do to have darker skin - but at some stage you have to accept that this is the way you are and meant to be and be happy with that. 

  • HAL49

    September 24, 2022 at 3:12 pm

    Agreeing with the previous answers 

    Formula most likely will cause irritation

    Results on pictures are unattainable cause that’s Photoshop

    Just adding that mineral oil is not quite safe for lip usage

  • pharma

    September 24, 2022 at 5:03 pm

    HAL49 said:

    Just adding that mineral oil is not quite safe for lip usage

    Why do you think so? I hope @Stella is using cosmetic/pharma grade and not poorly refined crude petroleum ;) .

  • HAL49

    September 25, 2022 at 1:53 am

    Pharma said:

    Why do you think so?

    I’m no expert in safety but I used to work in a transnational company with a very professional and serious team of Toxicologists , they had banned mineral oil in lip products , but consider safe for other applications. I like to believe they weren’t influenced by irrational fearmongering as they had fair thoughts on ingredients with bad press (sulfates , parabens , petroleum jelly) and did not hesitate to also ban or restrict “Natural” ingredients that had been found problematic
    so I think I just trust that team and I found this also:

    Taking into account that material applied to the lips largely ends up being ingested”

    “…strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues”
  • pharma

    September 25, 2022 at 4:40 am
    A good part or petroleum jelly is actually mineral oil ;) .
    Upps, gotta run…
  • Stella

    September 25, 2022 at 6:30 am

    Hello everyone thank you for your advice this product I tried to writte this formula alone at the request of my customers because it is a very fashionable product currently in my country people are fond of it and yes it exists balms that lighten the lips

  • Stella

    September 25, 2022 at 6:39 am

    But on YouTube I had tested a trick taken the bottom and it worked well it’s about the vaseline+ the lemon it worked Thats why I put the ascorbic acid in this formula because I was hoping for a effet the same🤔

  • pharma

    September 25, 2022 at 6:08 pm

    Lemons don’t contain that much ascorbic acid but lots of citric acid ;) .

  • Stella

    September 26, 2022 at 9:44 pm

    Thank u@pharmacie :)

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