Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hardness of Hair Waxes

  • Hardness of Hair Waxes

    Posted by palash1865 on September 13, 2016 at 11:18 am

    I read the following in a book about the hardness of hair waxes.

    “The hardness of wax products is also affected by the production method. When the emulsion is poured into a container while it is still hot (about 70°C), the cooled product becomes a hard wax. On the other hand, when the emulsion is cooled to about 45°C before pouring into a container, the product becomes a soft cream”

    Can someone please explain it? 

    palash1865 replied 8 years, 5 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    September 13, 2016 at 12:58 pm

    The hot mixture consists of molten wax in the solvent. As the mixture cools the wax component forms crystals. The slower the cooling, the larger the crystals and the harder the end product. Agitation during cooling breaks up large crystals and permits the formation of numerous smaller crystals thus a softer texture when cool.

    This effect of crystal size associated with the cooling rate/agitation rate is frequently the cause of the differences and failures experienced during scale-up from laboratory to manufacturing scale.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 13, 2016 at 4:44 pm

    The same is true for lipsticks…

  • palash1865

    Member
    September 14, 2016 at 10:06 am

    Thank you @johnb and @Bobzchemist.

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 14, 2016 at 3:02 pm

    the only time I’ve ever seen this happen with emulsion-based hair waxes is when they contain a long-flow rheology modifier which shears the emulsion as it’s mixed, e.g. PEG-90M

    apart from that, the only way a product of this type could potentially take on the appearance and consistency of a soft cream (in my experience) is if you fill it at a temperature below the set point of the emulsion

    if it’s been well formulated, the product will start thickening visibly before it reaches that point - and once it’s below the set point, it’s usually far too viscous to fill or pump with any efficiency

  • palash1865

    Member
    September 17, 2016 at 10:14 am

    @Bill_Toge thank you for your insights. I see that hair styling is one of your strongest subjects. Could you please refer some books or reading material on the subject?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 18, 2016 at 11:44 pm

    @palash1865 unfortunately, I can’t; everything I know about hot-fill styling products was learned at the bench, through blood, sweat and occasional tears

    it’s a specialist area, and it’s not well documented, so most chemists venturing into it have to learn by trial and error - because of this, I’ve been witness to some shockingly bad formulation work from consultants and self-styled experts who really ought to know better

    having said that, I am in the process of writing an R&D manual which covers this subject among many others; if I send you a relevant extract from it, you may find it helpful

  • palash1865

    Member
    September 19, 2016 at 12:41 pm

    @Bill_Toge I’d be really grateful if you could send an extract about hot-fill styling products. I’m sure that’d be helpful. Thank you.

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