Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General hair product wich gives smoothing and fixation effects

  • hair product wich gives smoothing and fixation effects

    Posted by Fekher on October 24, 2018 at 1:09 pm

    Actually i’am thinking about making hair product wich gives in same time fixation effect without make hair solid as hair pomade did , is there any such industrielised product or idea to start from it .
    @Perry @Gunther @Chemist77 @ngarayeva001 @jeremien

    Fekher replied 5 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 24 Replies
  • 24 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 1:12 pm

    You just need to include a holding polymer like PVP.

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 1:20 pm

    @Perry actually i made a lot of hair products : butter , gel , wax , gel wax  and about pvp all theire types when hair drying give also solid hair “not smooth one” however i want have smooth effect in addition to fixation effect.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 2:56 pm

    Is there are product like that on the market?

  • Gunther

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 4:51 pm

    You can get a mild hold and quite a smoothing effect with
    a silicone (i.e. dimethicone, dimethiconol, maybe amodimethicone too) dissolved in cyclomethicone

    For more hold you’d need a polymer like PVP.

    You can increase smoothing by lowering the pH down to 4 or so, so the hair cuticle closes, which makes hair feel smoother
    but IDK if citric acid is soluble in cyclomethicone. You’d need to experiment yourself, and try other acids if needed.

    You can add CETAC or BTMS for smoothing, but they aren’t directly soluble in cyclomethicone.
    The purpose of cyclomethicone is too speed up drying.
    CETAC and BTMS seem to be a bit soluble in alcohol.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 4:56 pm

    Recently I have done hair gel cream which is a cross between a gel and cream. The results are great without flaking even though I have used PVP. It’s about choosing the right combination of polymers other than carbomer types. The product is a bit pricey but it works great with the inclusion of oils as well. I haven’t used any heavy emulsifier since the polymers comfortably hold the oils which are around 4-5% max. Polysorbate 20 works well here for me. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 6:03 pm

    @Gunther thanks for your interesting ideas , i have idea about BTMS however i will make research about CETAC.
    @Chemist i already make a hair gel-cream using oil at 10% level and i used also pvp and neutrelized carbomer so the professionels said to me that the fixation effect is good however i did not concentrate for smoothing effect , so do you think that including oil will decrease the solidification hair effect according to your experiences?

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 6:11 pm

    Lubrizol has a fixative G-100PR polymer which allows a softer yet strong hold. Worth a sample to see if it works with your formula. I am also looking for that magic strong yet flexible hold type of product/formualtion. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 24, 2018 at 7:47 pm

    @Dirtnap1 actually that type of product is really great , thanks for informing me by the new fixative for me “G-100PR polymer ” i will make some reseaech about it then see if i can make some experiences using it.
    @Perry by searching such product in market i find this

  • Chemist77

    Member
    October 25, 2018 at 6:36 am

    I used Aculyn 88, Acudyne 1000, PVP,  ultrez 20, AMP-95, 4-5% oils, Polysorbate 20, preservative, fragrance and that’s about it. Have a stable product with good fixation and no flaking. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 25, 2018 at 1:12 pm

    @Chemist77 really intresting job and from my research even AMP will effect for flaking effect and for that effect it gives better resultats compairing to other neutralizers (TEA , NaOh, KOh…).
     Actually from researching i find out that there are a lot of fixatives hair agents other then pvp and most attractive ones for me are some polyquaternuim so have you an idea or experiences about polyquaternuim hair fixatives  and i wanna know theire stability with carbomer ? i did some research about that and i find that may some of polyquaternuim are stable with carbomer …

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    October 25, 2018 at 4:23 pm

    I’ve done a gel type like Chemist77 using pretty much the same other than the polymer used was both PVP/VA73, and/or G-100PR and also used Pemulan TR-1 as the thickener/modifier.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    October 25, 2018 at 6:00 pm

    A bit tough to bring together polyquaterniums and carbomers or other acrylate based polymers together. Except maybe in an emulsion type like I mentioned above and in a very low quantity, can’t say without a lab trial. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 26, 2018 at 3:50 pm

    did someone use hydroxyethylcellulose for making hair gel ?  and can it gives  better hair gel then carbomer one ?

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 28, 2018 at 9:55 am

    @Perry @Chemist77 @Gunther did someone try to make gel with hydroxyethylcellulose?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 29, 2018 at 12:33 pm

    Yes, companies have made gel with HEC. On most measures, nothing works better than Carbomer. That is why it is the most popular ingredient used for making hair gels.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    October 29, 2018 at 5:16 pm

    Totally agree with @Perry, it can be used but the properties will be totally different. And on top of that you will have to use many other polymers to reach that viscosity. At least I have not come across any such formulation although I have used other polymers other than carbomer to get similar or better effect. But the short flow properties of carbomer are unmatchable and that is a very important aspect of a hair gel.

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 29, 2018 at 5:18 pm

    @Perry i agree with you just i think that HEC have better sides  in stability versus slats .

  • Fekher

    Member
    October 29, 2018 at 5:46 pm

    @Chemist77 thanks for sharing your intersting experiences and for viscosity effect i agree with you just i think that HEC can have better compatibility with more ingredients .

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 1, 2018 at 6:54 pm

    @Chemist77 about carbomer : an adequat level of carbomer can make also hair gel without flaking and with good holding.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 2, 2018 at 12:44 am

    Yeahs sure, flaking generally comes from the film formers which become dry and brittle. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 2, 2018 at 4:13 pm

    Update : i make hair creme-gel based on olive oil and carbomer so it gives   medium holding and smoothing effect  without flaking ☺.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 2, 2018 at 6:02 pm

    You can incorporate little PVP or any other film former to improve hold. Or if you can use a fixative. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 2, 2018 at 8:11 pm

    thanks @Chemist77 yes for sure i already use pvp in my product .

  • Fekher

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 10:12 pm

    @Chemist77 about carbomer’s stability with polyquaternium actually i find source wich prove that with only 0,5 % of carbomer we can add 2% of polyquaternium 46 unfortently i can not have this type  of polyquaternium however i look forward to make such product … @ngarayeva001 that may can be interesting to you “hair gel with polyquaternium” actually it is one of my dream future product…

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