Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair product flaking.

  • Hair product flaking.

    Posted by vzpablo on February 7, 2017 at 7:54 am

    Hello everyone, if you’re reading my post I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. 

    I started formulating my own water soluble hair pomade that ends up being more like a gel everytime.  Therfore I said the hell with it, I’ll just market it as a gel-pomade because it’s a cross between the 2. Now I’m running into the problem of my hair product producing white flakes. When I apply it, all is great but after a couple of hours I begin to notice white flakes in my hair that goes away once I apply some water to my hair. How do I make a product that won’t flake?  The list of my ingredients are; 

    Water
    Ceteareth 25
    PVP k90
    Propylene Glycol 
    Castor oil 
    Glycerin 
    Phenoxyethanol 
    ParaBen
    Parfum

    Should I add something or deduct? 

    vzpablo replied 7 years, 11 months ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 8:07 am

    The relative proportions of the ingredients would be a help.

  • vzpablo

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 8:32 am

    Water.                        58%
    Ceteareth-25.           22%
    PVPK90.                    7%
    Propylene Glycol.    5%
    Castor oil.                 5%
    Glycerin.                    1%
    Phenoxyethanol.     0.5
    ParaBen.                  0.5
    Parfum.                     1%

  • johnb

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 9:01 am

    At a first glance, I suggest the PVPK90 is at least partially responsible for the flaking.

    Try reducing it or possibly substituting with PVPK30 - or both.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 7:38 pm

    You might look into something that will plasticize the PVP a bit.

  • vzpablo

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 10:14 pm

    @Bobzchemist what do you think about adding cyclo-dimethicone?

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 10:35 pm

    Adding something volatile won’t help at all - it might even make the problem worse.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    February 7, 2017 at 10:41 pm

    You could try a small amount of IPM or Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) and/or look at this thread: 

    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1770/hair-styling-gel 

    If you’re going to market more than this one product, you really should look into how to do your own research - not being able to use Google puts you at a severe handicap these days.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 9, 2017 at 9:29 pm

    Holy crap, that is a lot of PVP K-90! That is your sole problem here, both with the flaky ppt and with the lack of gel firmness in the end product.  Lower that to 2% or less and you should not see flaking, plus you should have a firm w/s pomade. Even better, use PVP K-30 as johnb suggests.

  • vzpablo

    Member
    February 11, 2017 at 8:25 am

    @chemicalmatt thank you for your advice! I will try that tomorrow! I brought it down to 3% yesterday and saw a significant reduction in flaking. Hopefully bringing down to 1% will do the trick. 

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