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Hair pomade formulating
Hello everyone! I was told to develop a product as close as possible in quality and properties to Uppercut Deluxe Matte Pomade. I have never done this before, so I need your help! Here is what I have done:
Ingredients:
- Distilled Water: 770 g
- Ceteareth-20: 175 g
- PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 40 g
- Fragrance (Parfum): 5 g
- Preservative (Phenoxyethanol): 10 g
- Glycerin: 50 g (added for stabilization and texture improvement)
Process:
**Phase Mixing:**
1. Place water, Ceteareth-20, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in a separate vessel.
2. Heat the mixture to a temperature of 70-80°C, stirring constantly to ensure all components are fully melted and form a homogeneous mixture.
3. Glycerin can be added during the heating stage or after the temperature drops below 45°C to prevent structural degradation.
**Cooling:**
4. Gradually cool the mixture, continuing to stir to prevent the formation of gels and agglomerates.
5. Once the temperature is below 45°C, add the fragrance and preservative, mixing thoroughly.
**Usage and Modification Notes:**
- Glycerin is added to stabilize the gel structure and improve the product’s texture.
- Ceteareth-20 is used at a concentration of 17.5%, allowing for the required viscosity and consistency.
- During heating and mixing, ensure even distribution of components and avoid overheating, which can lead to the degradation of active ingredients.
- Fragrance and preservative are added during the cooling phase to preserve their properties.
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6 Replies
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Here is the link to the product, in case it’s needed: https://uppercutdeluxe.com/products/matte-pomade
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Here is the ingredient list.
AQUA, GLYCERIN, STEARIC ACID, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, CYCLOMETHICONE, MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX, CYCLOTETRASILOXANE, CANDELILLA CERA, VP/VA COPOLYMER, PVP, POLYACRYLAMIDE, C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, LAURETH-7, PHENOXYETHANOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, PARFUM (AROMA), SODIUM HYDROXIDE, TETRASODIUM EDTA, CARAMEL.
I’m afraid you are missing significant ingredients.
You have nothing in your product to give hold. That is VP/VA COPOLYMER & PVP in the original formula. Also the waxes will help with “movable” hold.
Additionally, you have no silicones in your version so the application and feel will be completely different.
At the very least, you’ll have to add PVP to your formula to give it some hold.-
Recipe (for 1000 g):
1. Distilled water (Aqua): 400 g
2. Glycerin (Glycerin): 50 g
3. Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid): 100 g
4. Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Hydrogenated Castor Oil): 50 g
5. Cyclomethicone (Cyclomethicone): 50 g
6. Microcrystalline Wax (Microcrystalline Wax): 100 g
7. Cyclotetrasiloxane (Cyclotetrasiloxane): 50 g
8. Candelilla Wax (Candelilla Cera): 50 g
9. VP/VA Copolymer (VP/VA Copolymer): 50 g
10. PVP (PVP): 20 g
11. Polyacrylamide (Polyacrylamide): 20 g
12. C13-14 Isoparaffin (C13-14 Isoparaffin): 20 g
13. Laureth-7 (Laureth-7): 10 g
14. Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol): 5 g
15. Caprylyl Glycol (Caprylyl Glycol): 5 g
16. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate): 5 g
17. Sodium Hydroxide (Sodium Hydroxide): 5 g
18. Tetrasodium EDTA (Tetrasodium EDTA): 1 g
19. Fragrance (Parfum/Aroma): up to 5 g, as desired
20. Caramel (Caramel): for color, as desired
Technological Process:
1. Preparation of Components:
Measure all ingredients in the required proportions.
Separate the components into the aqueous phase and the oil phase.
2. Aqueous Phase:
Place distilled water, glycerin, and tetrasodium EDTA in a separate container and heat to 70°C.
3. Oil Phase:
In another container, melt the stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, cyclomethicone, and cyclotetrasiloxane until completely melted at 70°C.
4. Mixing Phases:
Slowly pour the aqueous phase into the oil phase, constantly stirring to ensure even mixing of the components.
Continue stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
5. Adding Active Ingredients:
Add the VP/VA copolymer, PVP, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 to the mixture, stirring thoroughly until completely dissolved.
Add phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, stirring thoroughly.
Add sodium stearoyl glutamate and stir again.
Add sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH.
6. Cooling and Fragrance:
Cool the mixture to below 40°C.
Add fragrance and caramel for color, stirring thoroughly.
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Technological Process:
1. Preparation of Components:
Measure all ingredients in the required proportions.
Separate the components into the aqueous phase and the oil phase.
2. Aqueous Phase:
Place distilled water, glycerin, and tetrasodium EDTA in a separate container and heat to 70°C.
3. Oil Phase:
In another container, melt the stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, cyclomethicone, and cyclotetrasiloxane until completely melted at 70°C.
4. Mixing Phases:
Slowly pour the aqueous phase into the oil phase, constantly stirring to ensure even mixing of the components.
Continue stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
5. Adding Active Ingredients:
Add the VP/VA copolymer, PVP, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 to the mixture, stirring thoroughly until completely dissolved.
Add phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, stirring thoroughly.
Add sodium stearoyl glutamate and stir again.
Add sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH.
6. Cooling and Fragrance:
Cool the mixture to below 40°C.
Add fragrance and caramel for color, stirring thoroughly.
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Recipe (for 1000 g):
1. Distilled water (Aqua): 400 g
2. Glycerin (Glycerin): 50 g
3. Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid): 100 g
4. Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Hydrogenated Castor Oil): 50 g
5. Cyclomethicone (Cyclomethicone): 50 g
6. Microcrystalline Wax (Microcrystalline Wax): 100 g
7. Cyclotetrasiloxane (Cyclotetrasiloxane): 50 g
8. Candelilla Wax (Candelilla Cera): 50 g
9. VP/VA Copolymer (VP/VA Copolymer): 50 g
10. PVP (PVP): 20 g
11. Polyacrylamide (Polyacrylamide): 20 g
12. C13-14 Isoparaffin (C13-14 Isoparaffin): 20 g
13. Laureth-7 (Laureth-7): 10 g
14. Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol): 5 g
15. Caprylyl Glycol (Caprylyl Glycol): 5 g
16. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate): 5 g
17. Sodium Hydroxide (Sodium Hydroxide): 5 g
18. Tetrasodium EDTA (Tetrasodium EDTA): 1 g
19. Fragrance (Parfum/Aroma): up to 5 g, as desired
20. Caramel (Caramel): for color, as desired
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Hello, Perry! Thank you very much for your time! I have revised the formula and assembled it from the specified ingredients. Could you please let me know what you think about this version?
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