• Hair

  Hair clay pomade help

  Posted by Calyx0 on March 30, 2025 at 11:54 am

  Hello! I am Alejandro, a hobbyist cosmetic maker and I am having trouble with a hair pomade I’m developing.

  I bought a new emulsifying wax sold as BTMS alternative (Cetearyl alcohol>50%, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate>15%<30%, Ceteareth-20>1%<5% acording to the datasheet) and the emulsion is not stable and separates whatever I do. ¿Is this e-wax finicky or is there another problem I am overlooking? Here I leave my formula:

  Water phase: 59.7%

  • Water: 49.2%
  • Glycerin: 0.8%
  • Propylene glycol: 1.2%
  • Kaolin clay: 6.3%
  • Bentonite clay: 2.2%

  Oil phase: 37.5%

  • Beeswax: 8.1%
  • Soy wax: 5.2%
  • Shea butter: 6.4%
  • Sunflower oil: 4.7%
  • Castor oil: 0.8%
  • Cetyl alcohol: 1.1%
  • ‘BTMS alternative’: 6.8%
  • Lanette n: 4.4%

  Additives: 2.8%

  • Geogard 221: 0.9%
  • Vitamin E: 0.5%
  • Fragance: 1.4%

  I added the lanette N because that was the e-wax I used previously with the same formula and it worked.
  I have tried increasing the e-wax up to 10% and it still separates. The addition of the lanette N didn’t seem to do anything.

  The way I make the emulsion is: heat up both phases to 100º (water bath), mix them, when they reach 65º I add the additives.

  Thanks for all the kind responses.

  Calyx0 replied 1 day, 21 hours ago 1 Member · 0 Replies

  • emulsion
  • hair
  • pomade
• 0 Replies

Log In to Reply