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Hair clay pomade help
Hello! I am Alejandro, a hobbyist cosmetic maker and I am having trouble with a hair pomade I’m developing.
I bought a new emulsifying wax sold as BTMS alternative (Cetearyl alcohol>50%, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate>15%<30%, Ceteareth-20>1%<5% acording to the datasheet) and the emulsion is not stable and separates whatever I do. ¿Is this e-wax finicky or is there another problem I am overlooking? Here I leave my formula:
Water phase: 59.7%
- Water: 49.2%
- Glycerin: 0.8%
- Propylene glycol: 1.2%
- Kaolin clay: 6.3%
- Bentonite clay: 2.2%
Oil phase: 37.5%
- Beeswax: 8.1%
- Soy wax: 5.2%
- Shea butter: 6.4%
- Sunflower oil: 4.7%
- Castor oil: 0.8%
- Cetyl alcohol: 1.1%
- ‘BTMS alternative’: 6.8%
- Lanette n: 4.4%
Additives: 2.8%
- Geogard 221: 0.9%
- Vitamin E: 0.5%
- Fragance: 1.4%
I added the lanette N because that was the e-wax I used previously with the same formula and it worked.
I have tried increasing the e-wax up to 10% and it still separates. The addition of the lanette N didn’t seem to do anything.The way I make the emulsion is: heat up both phases to 100º (water bath), mix them, when they reach 65º I add the additives.
Thanks for all the kind responses.
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3 Replies
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Hi Alejandro,
As I’m not familiar with some of the ingredients you’ve used, I can only suggest to use the search function on this page- I know for sure that the subject of “hair pomade” has been discussed here more than once.
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If you’re still looking for help on this, my recommendation would be to look at different emulsifier(s). Your formula actually has very little in the way of OW emulsifier. Most of the component ingredients in your BTMS alternative and the Lanette N are thickeners and stabilizers, not truly OW emulsifier.
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Are the clays gamma’ed?
Think I’d add something for Gram negative bacteria - prob PE
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