Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair & Body Moisturizer

  • Hair & Body Moisturizer

    Posted by Fedaro on October 30, 2024 at 12:31 pm

    Hello! I am working on a hair and body moisturizer and would really appreciate any comments or advice about my formula.

    • Water: q.s. 100%
    • ICE Hair Restore (Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37): 3%**
    • Plantasens Olive LD (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables): 1%
    • Dimethicone (350cst): 1%
    • Glycerin: 0.5%
    • Liquid Germall Plus (Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate): 0.4%
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.1%

    **ICE Hair Restore is about 1/3 of each ingredient, so in my usage, 1% of each.

    This is supposed to be similar to the Paul Mitchell hair and body moisturizer, which has the following INCI:

    aqua, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, aloe barbadensis extract, hedychium coronarium (white ginger) root extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, anthemis nobilis flower extract, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf, cetrimonium chloride, dmdm hydantoin, glycerin, polyquaternium-37, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, ceteth-2, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, ppg-6 c12-15 alketh-12, bisamino peg/ppg-41/3 aminoethyl pg-propyl dimethicone, peg-12 dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, yellow 5 (ci 19140), blue 1 (ci 42090), parfum (fragrance), citronellol, coumarin, geraniol, linalool

    I have a few questions I would be grateful to have answered:

    1. Should Disodium EDTA be used in cationic emulsions? It looks like the Paul Mitchell version doesn’t use a chelating agent at all, unless I missed it.
    2. Why use bisamino peg/ppg-41/3 aminoethyl pg-propyl dimethicone and peg-12 dimethicone instead of regular dimethicone? I assume the latter is for improved rinse-off, but I’m not sure what the first one is.
    3. I want to make my version a little thicker by increasing the ICE Hair Restore, but I’m worried about using more than 1% each of Behentrimonium Chloride and Polyquaternium-37 in a leave-on product. Do you think this would be too much?

    Any other comments/suggestions would be very much welcome! Thank you so much!

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