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Hair & Body Moisturizer
Hello! I am working on a hair and body moisturizer and would really appreciate any comments or advice about my formula.
- Water: q.s. 100%
- ICE Hair Restore (Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37): 3%**
- Plantasens Olive LD (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables): 1%
- Dimethicone (350cst): 1%
- Glycerin: 0.5%
- Liquid Germall Plus (Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate): 0.4%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
**ICE Hair Restore is about 1/3 of each ingredient, so in my usage, 1% of each.
This is supposed to be similar to the Paul Mitchell hair and body moisturizer, which has the following INCI:
aqua, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, aloe barbadensis extract, hedychium coronarium (white ginger) root extract, ascophyllum nodosum extract, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, anthemis nobilis flower extract, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf, cetrimonium chloride, dmdm hydantoin, glycerin, polyquaternium-37, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, ceteth-2, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, ppg-6 c12-15 alketh-12, bisamino peg/ppg-41/3 aminoethyl pg-propyl dimethicone, peg-12 dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, yellow 5 (ci 19140), blue 1 (ci 42090), parfum (fragrance), citronellol, coumarin, geraniol, linalool
I have a few questions I would be grateful to have answered:
- Should Disodium EDTA be used in cationic emulsions? It looks like the Paul Mitchell version doesn’t use a chelating agent at all, unless I missed it.
- Why use bisamino peg/ppg-41/3 aminoethyl pg-propyl dimethicone and peg-12 dimethicone instead of regular dimethicone? I assume the latter is for improved rinse-off, but I’m not sure what the first one is.
- I want to make my version a little thicker by increasing the ICE Hair Restore, but I’m worried about using more than 1% each of Behentrimonium Chloride and Polyquaternium-37 in a leave-on product. Do you think this would be too much?
Any other comments/suggestions would be very much welcome! Thank you so much!
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10 Replies
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Hi,
1. This post will help https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/cationic-emulsion-system-questions-for-lotion/
2. No idea.
3. No idea either, as I don’t use them in skin moisturizers.
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thank you for the link!
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The two silicones in your benchmark are for clear systems, perhaps that’s the reason.
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@ketchito thanks for sharing! the benchmark is actually a green cream, it is not clear. 🤔
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Since @ketchito capably answered #2, I’ll go to #1: use Na2 EDTA, its sequestering activity is not compromised by cationics; and #3: to thicken just add cetyl alcohol or stearyl or both. Fatty alcohols highly associate with Polyquaternium-37, boosting viscosity.
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@chemicalmatt thank you for confirming about disodium edta! the only reason i want to avoid adding cetyl/stearyl alcohol individually is because the ICE Hair Restore (Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37) is a cold process emulsifier, so I am making this lotion by adding all the ingredients to a beaker and then blending. it is very quick and requires no heat. i was thinking of adding hydroxyethylcellulose, but I’m not sure if it can handle the shear.
can i ask you, how much behentrimonium chloride do you think is too much in a leave-on application?
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My approach was a lot simpler for an oil I produced and exported globally 2006-2023 under my brand Indochine Natural. It was a formulation of carrier oils (Jojoba, Sesame, Olive, Coconut, and Sunflower) with an essential oil fragrance. And no synthetics.
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i’m allergic to natural 😷
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Yes, you could use more ICE HR. I use 5% for conditioner. Adding 1% more of the Olive LD might help. As could adding more glycerin so that there’s less free water.
I will say that I think that ICE Conditioner (AKA NDCS) makes a better dual purpose product than ICE HR. ICE HR is better at conditioning hair, but it feels much stickier or gummier as lotion than NDCS at any percentage.
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thank you for your input. i haven’t noticed a sticky or gummy feeling on my skin with ICE HR at 3%! maybe the dimethicone is helping to mitigate that feeling? i haven’t tried ICE Conditioner yet, but I’ll look into it. i do wonder if cocamidopropyl betaine could be irritating if left on the face.
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