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Growth Factors
Are growth factors (naturally occurring substance capable of stimulating cellular growth - usually plant derived) still considered as cosmetics?
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10 Replies
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If they work as described they would be considered illegal drugs here in the US.But if you make no specific claims about them working then people have used them as cosmetic ingredients in the US.But the FDA frowns on this sort of thing. -
I was just wondering about using protein peptides such as L-Arginine as a moisturiser, especially after seeing different serums with growth factor claims. If using protein peptides as a moisturiser with no special claims except as a moisturiser would that not be aceptable?
Btw, that link doesn’t seem to be working. Thanks Perry. -
We have seen a big difference in results between a moisturiser without and the same with, pea polypeptides, but since we don’t market in the USA we have no problem with claims.
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@braveheart - thanks. I fixed the link.
This is really more of a legal question & better answered by a lawyer.If your intent for adding an ingredient is because you think it will change the biochemistry of the skin, whether you claim it does that or not should not matter because you intend it to do that. This is why you can’t put Hydroquinone in a product and get around following the OTC monograph.I think the “intent” of adding an ingredient also comes into play but others might disagree with that. -
In my personal formulations (that is for personal usage), I do include LArginine and Vitamin C and I feel an instant firming, whether this is changing the biochemistry of my skin is unbeknown to me, but it does make me feel younger
It was while I was checking to see if there is a market for such that I found those with claims of growth factors and started wondering if a peptide ingredient such as LArginine is a growth factor, too and if this is permitted as a moisturiser, even though that is what I use in my personal regime. -
If I had to take a guess the L-Arginine is acting as a precursor to Urea in this case. You’re describing the benefit that we see by adding Urea. I would just simply add Urea to your product unless you intend a specific marketing claim.
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Nope. I am not using urea, my other ingredient is MSM and glycerine. Well, the marketing claim one can make in this case is a smoothing (or wrinkle reduction) effect. Yes, I’ve been my own guinea pig together with a few friends who took some for use, even as an aftershave.
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I think you misunderstood what I said. I was saying that the benefit you’re seeing is because the L-Arginine is a precursor to Urea. Try swapping and see if you notice a difference.
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Oh, I get it now. Thanks
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I don’t think of arginine as a growth factor. Altough there are studies that show arginine will stimulate human growth hormone and some people take it as an anti-aging supplement.
Growth factors would be EGF, which I’ve seen as an ingredient, TGF - which is stimulated by tripeptide 5, and FGF. None of these are plant derived. I don’t know of any plant derived growth factors that are growth factors for mamallian cells.
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