Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Glyceryl Stearate Citrate conundrum

  • Glyceryl Stearate Citrate conundrum

    Posted by ost85 on February 16, 2025 at 1:50 am

    Hello all,

    I’ve never encountered this with any other emulsifier.

    I noticed when I use this emulsifier the creams keep gaining viscosity for months afterwards. Looks like it has a very pronounced delayed formation? The differences can range from a pourable lotion consistency a week after to a thick foot butter cream two months later, it’s that extreme.

    Details:

    1. I’m using it as a co-emulsifier. Currently it’s paired with mon 68, plus cetearyl alcohol.

    2. Have tested with it on its own, same issue only much more pronounced.

    3. I cool the cream under an overhead stirrer. Have tried with a cold water bath and without.

    4. Issue is also more pronounced when there are more butters in the oil phase, which leads me to believe it’s a slow structuring issue.

    5. I discounted all other possible causes. No evaporation (samples are in a glass jar with screw on lids). Also repeated the test about 30 times.

    Is this a known issue? It must be something in my method that needs to be adjusted to speed up things?

    Thank you for any advice.

    ost85 replied 1 day, 18 hours ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Fedaro

    DIY formulator
    February 17, 2025 at 2:06 pm

    Can you share the formula or at least the other ingredients in it?

    • ost85

      Member
      February 18, 2025 at 9:30 am

      Sure. It happens in all sorts of combinations but this is my latest test that had this happen:

      Oil:

      8.5 sunflower oil

      4 shea

      6 CCT

      1.5 cetearyl alcohol

      3.5 montanov 68

      1.5 glyceryl stearate citrate

      Water:

      3% glycerine

      Rest water + 1% preservative

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