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Formulation
This is the Cream of Paula’s choice called “Oil-Free Moisturizer”.Apparently, in the formula there is oil. Why is it named oil-free? Are ingredients such as Ceramide, Cholesterol increasing acne for oily skin? Thinking of this formula like?Here are the ingredients of it:“Water (Aqua), Ethyl Macadamiate (hydration), Glycerin (skin-replenishing), Cetearyl Alcohol (texture enhancer), Propanediol (hydration), Triethylhexanoin (skin-smoothing), Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (texture enhancer), Glyceryl Stearate, PEG -100 Stearate (thickeners), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (skin- soothing), Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake (skin-replenishing), Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract (antioxidant), Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract (antioxidant) , Prunus Serotina (Wild Cherry) Fruit Extract (skin-soothing / antioxidant), Niacinamide (skin-restoring), Tripeptide-29 (skin-restoring), Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP (skin-replenishing), Sodium Hyaluronate ( skin-replenishing / hydration), Phytosphingosine (skin-restoring), Cholesterol (skin-replenishing), Panthenol (hydration), Sodium PCA (skin-replenishing), Adenosine (skin-restoring), Lecithin (skin-restoring / hydration), Arginine (amino acid / hydration), Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (emulsifier) Sodium Gluconate (hydration / chelation), Citric Acid (pH adjuster), Isohexadecane (solvent / texture enhancer), Xanthan Gum, Carbomer (thickeners), Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin (preservatives).“ -
16 Replies
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I don’t see any actual oils. There are some oil soluble ingredients, if that’s what you mean. Ceramides are skin identical lipids but not proper oils.
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Oil-free is a marketing term. What they usually mean by this is “free of standard vegetable oils”. Those products often include lightweight silicones (D5 for example) or esters (like in this product). What bothers me more is that they called PEG-100 stearate a thickener
Is “emulsifier” a new swear word? -
I also think “oil”, here is vegetable oil. The purpose of this product is to use moisturizers for oily people. But why use Ceramide, Cholesterol. Ceramide can also signal cells and cell membranes, stimulating lipid synthesis. I think it isn’t very good
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@ttk102360 If the ingredients list is properly declared (from high to low), then the amount of Ceramides and Cholesterol seem very low. Also, I believe they’d need to be able to penetrate quite some to reach the dermis so they can stimulate lipid growth, and especially for Ceramides, that might be hard since they are usually large molecules.
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Perhaps this is a common misunderstanding due to the term.
“Oil-free” is mainly a marketing term, which generally only excludes ingredients that INCI has the word “oil” in them. Normally plant oils or essential oils, and sometimes fragrance oils.
Other lipids like waxes, butters, esters, ceramides, are still not considered “oils” by naming.
Lipid content that are in the PC product includes: Ethyl Macadamiate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethylhexanoin, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol
If you are looking for lipid-free, look for a gel.
Are ingredients such as Ceramide, Cholesterol increasing acne for oily skin?
It depends on the cause of your acne. Acne can be due to food / diet, hygiene, bacterial, hormonal, etc.
Personally i don’t really consider breakouts as acne, however no one can really tell you how the ingredients would really react for your skin except by patch testing.
The purpose of this product is to use moisturizers for oily people. But why use Ceramide, Cholesterol. Ceramide can also signal cells and cell membranes, stimulating lipid synthesis. I think it isn’t very goodThe point of adding the Sk-Influx ceramide blend for oily skin people is mainly because some people have oily skin due to dryness or due to weakened skin barrier. So it makes some sense to use these ingredients.
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With its lipid-soluble ingredients, it has the ability to stimulate signals at the stratum corneum. But I agree with @jemolian‘s
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@jemolian. According to you, this formula will suit some people. Probably middle-aged people
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No, i won’t say middle-aged people, but mainly for people with dry or damaged skin. There’s no age group to ingredients, only the company decides it based on how they want to market it. If based on the ingredients, they don’t look like it’s skewed towards middle-age people.
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I don’t see what age has to do with it. In fact, in my opinion, all claims like like “for oily skin,” “for dry, dehydrated skin,” etc is marketing BS. Nothing more. The very idea of skin types is BS. Dry skin is a skin condition, not an inherent, permanent “skin type” like people think..when I was on prescription acne topicals, my skin condition was temporarily dry. When I first started taking an androgenic oral contraceptive, my skin condition was temporarily oily.
I think people who have a very black and white view of “skin types” as permanent characteristic have simply fallen for the BS and internalized skincare marketing.
I’m glad skincare companies are moving away from marketing like this (The Ordinary, Drunk Elephant, etc.)
Furthermore it’s complete BS that people with oily skin shouldn’t use oils on their skin. There is nothing that supports this assumption.
Sure, people that are currently experiencing oily skin may PREFER not to use a heavy, greasy moisturizer simply because that might not be comfortable for them. But there’s absolutely nothing that supports the idea that they SHOULDN’T or CAN’T use heavier, oil containing moisturizers.
Just my opinion.
Rant over.
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@emma1985, thank you for saying it. There is a lot of black and white thinking when it comes to skincare. Even oily skin can benefit from emollients. It is true that skin tends to get drier as we age, but the same person’s skin has different needs throughout the year. I can use cold cream on my face in winter (I am clearly not young anymore), but a the same time I can get away with using a water-based serum with no oil in summer.
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@emma1985, ngarayeva001Thanks for your opinions.
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@ketchito - On the list of ingredients and concentrations…yes, things have to be listed in order of concentration but only if the concentration is higher than 1%. Concentrations of 1% or less can be listed in any order. Although typically, colorants are listed at the end.
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@Perry Thank you, that’s very clarifying. I was actually puzzled about that for quite some time. Here in Latin America we’re forced to list all ingredients from top to bottom, regardless if the concentration is higher of 1% or not.
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@ketchito - Interesting. Yes in the US, EU, Canada & other places that adopt those regulations, ingredient listing is dictated by the rules in the INCI Dictionary.
I did not know in your area they required listing in order but it’s not surprising. We do not have global regulations about cosmetics. In fact, when I started in the industry Canada did not even require ingredient lists.
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@ketchito, I wish it was like this everywhere! I was puzzled when started dabbling with foundations. I figured out soon enough that the concentration of titanium dioxide in any foundation is definitely above 1% (can be higher than10% depending on complexion and desired coverage), but it’s always listed below fragrance! Now to make it more confusing, if that foundation has TiO2 as a sunscreen, you will see it on the top as an active ingredient(as per FDA rules actives are shown separately of general LOI).
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ngarayeva001 said:Oil-free is a marketing term. What they usually mean by this is “free of standard vegetable oils”. Those products often include lightweight silicones (D5 for example) or esters (like in this product). What bothers me more is that they called PEG-100 stearate a thickener Is “emulsifier” a new swear word?
I agree. A165 is novel emulsifier, not a thickner I think.
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