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Formulating with PEG-90M
Hi friends!
I’m developing a hair mask with a ‘spider-web’ effect, but the formulation is not showing the spider web effect. I tried different concentrations of PEG-90M (1%, 4% e 10%) but still there’s no spider web effect. I’m using a liquid version of PEG-90M with 2-3% active pencentage. I already reached out to the supplier but they didn’t repplied back yet. There’s the formula down below (ingredients listed as in order of addition):
1. Water… till 100%
1. Behentrimonium Chloride 50% - 1,50%
1. Cetearyl Alcohol - 7%
1. Incroquat Behenyl TMS (Behentrimonium Methosulfate & Cetearyl Alcohol) - 3%
2. Alpha Improve 4D Hair (Bisabolol & Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil & Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil) - 0,30%
2. Prodew 500 (aminoacids blend) - 0,50%
2. Hydrolyzed Keratin - 0,30%
2. Amodimethicone - 1%
2. Dimethicone - 1,50%
3. Fragrande - 1,00%
3. Microcare PHG (Phenoxyethanol & Caprylyl Glycol) - 1%
4. PEG-90M - (we tried 1%, 4% and 10%)The phase 1 is heated until ~80ºC and then homogeniezed (800 rpm for 5 minutes).
The phase 2 is added to the system followed by constant 800 rpm stirring.
Phase 3 is added when the system is cooled and then homogeneized (800 rpm) for 5 minutes.
Phase 4 is added and then the system is homogeneized (800 rpm) for 5 minutes.pH adjusted to 4.5 - 6.0.
Anyone has any suggestion of what I could try to get the spider web effect? Any comment/suggestion would be very helpful!
Kind regards,
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2 Replies
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@tecnico3vinia that snot-like rheology you seek will only occur if you pair PEG-90M with an acrylic polymer such as carbomer or acrylates copolymer. It is a synergistic effect between them. And when you do: look out! Because even 1.0% PEG-90M is far too much! 10% will be unworkable. This means of course you will need to DEL those behenyl quats and start from scratch.
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homogenising the formula destroys PEG-90M and other long-chain resins of that type; your best bet is to disperse it in glycerine, or something else it’s not soluble in, then add it with stirring (no shearing!) until it’s fully hydrated
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