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Formulating Cream-Gel Hair Product: Seeking Guidance on Ingredient Percentages
Hello everyone,
I’m currently working on creating a cream-gel hair product (strictly for personal use). Its main goal is to provide a medium to strong hold, define my curls, and give shine. Inspired by a discontinued favorite product of mine, I’ve already identified the ingredients I want to use, but I require assistance with determining the appropriate percentages. While I have rough estimates, I would greatly appreciate suggestions for the precise percentages of each ingredient that will add up to 100%. I’ve conducted some research, but if there are any discrepancies/errors in my formulating process, please don’t hesitate to point them out. I’m relatively new to formulation.
Water (Aqua): 50-70%
Cetearyl Alcohol: 2-4%
Polysorbate 60: 1-2%
PVP: 2-4%
Glycerin: 3-5%
Propanediol: 2-4%
(Undecided) Oil: 2-4%
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: 1-2%
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate: 0.2-0.4%
Carbomer: 0.2-0.4%
Triethanolamine: 0.2-0.5%
Citric Acid: 0.2-0.4%
Tetrasodium EDTA: 0.2-0.4%
I’m also attaching a picture of my spreadsheet.
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3 Replies
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When formulating, it’s always advisable to start out with as few ingredients as you can. If you’re looking for hold the key ingredient will be PVP. I’d start with 4% and look to reduce it if the hold is too stiff.
I don’t see a lot of reason to have both Glycerin and Propanediol. I’d just use the Propanediol.
I don’t like having Citric Acid in a Carbomer system as it can break your viscosity. You also likely don’t need it although you may to reduce the pH.
I’d start simple. Water, PVP, Cetearyl alcohol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, preservative and see what you get. Then add the Propanediol, hydrolyzed protein, oil if you want.
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Hey Perry,
I appreciate your assistance with this formulation. I’ll heed your advice to begin with fewer ingredients. However, I would like to include an emulsifying wax containing polysorbate 60 and cetearyl alcohol.
How does this sound as a starting point?
Water: 91.7%
Emulsifying wax: 3%
PVP: 4%
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate: 1%
Carbomer: 0.2%
Triethanolamine: 0.1% (as needed?)
I will of course only make a small batch for use & see if the product meets my expectations regarding its consistency, hold, and stability– and adjust the formulation as necessary based on the results.
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Sounds reasonable. Although, I’m not sure if the preservative will interfere with the Carbomer thickening.
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