Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating cream for after sunburn

  • Formulating cream for after sunburn

    Posted by Anonymous on March 23, 2018 at 3:30 am

    Hi all. I have a new project in the industry where I work to create a formula for used after sunburn. I want to use active substances ceramide. what percentage can I use? thankyou so much.

    Microformulation replied 6 years, 7 months ago 7 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • zaidjeber

    Member
    March 23, 2018 at 3:47 am

    @auliyanirosdianak ask your supplier or read the material datasheet. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 23, 2018 at 12:16 pm

    Evonik sells ceramides and gives a suggested use level of 0.05% - 0.5%

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 23, 2018 at 12:28 pm

    They are quite pricey though and only recently started selling at 1 kg levels. You may want to see if the retail price of your finished good would support a high material cost.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 23, 2018 at 2:32 pm

    @Microformulation - I’d also be skeptical anyone would notice an improvement using them over a good moisturizing lotion that doesn’t have them.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 23, 2018 at 2:58 pm

    I really couldn’t disagree with you there. The Skin barrier is likely not compromised as much as inflamed, the raw materials would likely price you out of the market as we all can recall a representative product and the effect would just not be marked. Then, I think it would be a hard sell for marketing to “upsell” this product at a higher price due to these “unique” materials.

  • Doreen

    Member
    March 25, 2018 at 7:16 pm

    The ratio between the different ceramides also seems to be important.

    @Perry
    I agree. A while ago I bought SK Influx (Evonik Industries). I couldn’t tell a difference from the moisturizer that didn’t have it. 
    To be honest I have that with most ‘skin actives’.
    I’ve mad a skin lightening moisturizer for a friend with several supposed brightening actives (Dermofeel Enlight and PhytoTrace Saffran), but so far I still haven’t heard about ‘spectacular’ results on the hyperpigmentated skin parts.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 3:38 am

    @Doreen the only thing thats gets spectacular is the price here ?
    I completely agree with @Perry on his views for such value additions.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 3:52 pm

    VITAL ET , (Ashland) A VITAMIN E phosphate complex has been tested in-vivo and found superior in photo induced erythema reduction compared to both aloe vera and a topical steroid when used at 1percent  wt/wt active.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 4:36 pm

    compared to both aloe vera and a topical steroid when used at 1percent  wt/wt active.
    compared to what percentage of aloe vera? It would be ridiculous to expect 1% of aloe to do anything. I use a 50% concentration and it works fantastically well.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 7:43 pm

    We tested dose/response up to 3% active on both pre/post erythema using 5 subjects but AV was mute even at highest dose tested .Fifty percent is quite high and what does  I use a 50% concentration and it works fantastically well.  mean?How did you test ?

  • Doreen

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 9:06 pm

    @Chemist77
    True! :blush: 
    If the ‘actives’ don’t pass double-blind placebo controlled studies, I’m suspicious of the so called beneficial claims. We practice science, not magic.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 9:11 pm

    This would be an easier situation to test versus many others. Dermatological grading of erythemic response is common in sunscreen testing. Treated skin versus untreated skin could be graded over a set period of time.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 9:12 pm

    Fifty percent is quite high and what does  I use a 50% concentration and it works fantastically well.  mean?How did you test ?
    I use x10 concentrate in the formula to achieve that.
    Tests? We have before/after photos from people who suffered burns, in one case third degree in places. Plus, there are scientific studies of aloe vera compared with silver sulfadiazine.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    March 26, 2018 at 9:28 pm

    Thanks but not sure of relationship of second/third degree burns/skin damge to UV induced erythema:also dose/response in same for AV—-cost/performance?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 27, 2018 at 12:52 am

    I have to agree with @”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ” in an important respect, that being that would have to address which particular diagnosis you would be assessing the comparative testing towards. I think in this case, in order not to risk being an obstacle to Medical intervention (fluid replenishment, secondary bacterial infection), you would have to restrict the evaluation to first degree burns ( pain and reddening of the epidermis). By definition, this would eliminate Silver Sulfadiazine (Silvadene Cream) since Pfizer does not endorse it for first degree burns but rather second and third-degree burning wherein there is a full or partial thickness compromise of the dermis. So, in summary, I believe that a simple dermatological erythema grading of the products side by side in first burns would be your evaluation criteria.

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