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Formula for low poo shampoo
Hello, I want to make a shampoo like this http://www.devacurl.com/low-poo-curl.html.
It is designed for curly and dry haired type with very low level of detergents. Currently I have tried adding 10% cocoamidopropyl betain in a simple conditioner recipe which consist of oils and BTMS. It worked well, it came out like a thin conditioner or creamy shampoo.
Now I’m thinking to omit the btms and oils and just make a simple water based formula without oils.
Something like 10% cocoamidopropyl betain. Other addictives witch allready have is panthenol, glycerine, aloe vera. I also have wheat protein but do not like it on my hair. It’s for personal use, at least for now. -
20 Replies
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This just looks like a basic shampoo that only uses cocoamidopropyl betain as the cleanser. a super mild and barely cleansing on at that. I would check
the blog swiftycraftymonkey for basic shampoo formulas and just use cocoamidopropyl betain as the surfactant. -
I love this blog and learned lots of things. Made a shampoo with DSL mild and coco betaine in the past which is supposed to be mild. It was very cleansing but not as mild as I wanted. I turned to no poo, just conditioner since I barely use silicones. My hair looked good but not as fresh and voluminous. I feel like my hair does better in between the two, the low poo method.
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You need to use some refatting agents.. If you don’t want to use PEG’s, you can use PEG-free refatting agent.
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The ingredients you need for the formula to make it just like that one are:
Water
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Glycerin
Coco-Betaine
PEG-75 Lanolin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Fragrance (Parfum)
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Polyquaternium-10
Propylene Glycol
Polyquaternium-7
Aminomethyl Propanol
Diazolidinyl Urea
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
But you could get close with something like this…Water
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco-Betaine
PEG-75 Lanolin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Fragrance (Parfum)
Polyquaternium-10
Aminomethyl Propanol
(Preservative of your choice) -
Is there any difference between using water solublt shea butter and peg-75 lanolin in this formula or a shampoo formula? I was thinking about getting peg 74 lanolin, but have never used it before in a forumla.
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I’m not sure. I’ve not compared ws Shea Butter with PEG-75 Lanolin. They are both blends of lipid materials with similar chain lengths so they might work the same, or maybe not. You have to compare to know for sure.
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I think that I can make an oil water soluble by using polysorbate. I have poly 20 and I think I can use for example plain castor oil or olive oil with poly 20. I’m not sure for the ratios though….
EDIT: I found this http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.gr/2011/01/question-how-to-use-polysorbates-in-our.html
What about using equal parts of castor oil with poly 20. Based on ingredients I have right now I could make something like:Water
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Glycerin
Polysorbate 20
Castor Oil
Panthenol
Guar gum
Fragrance (Parfum)
Phenoexytehanol -
Yes you can but it will suppress the foam.
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Well I tried this recipe yesterday. It was quite foamy, I guess the polysorbate contributed to this. It cleaned very well, I had this squeaky feeling on my hair, which is maybe too much for my dry curls. Until now I used to make a simple conditioner with BTMS and 10% betaine which was more slippery but still had good cleansing properties, at least on me.
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You might like to try adding 1% of Lamesoft PO-65 (gives softness) and Polyquart H-81 (volumiser, film former, increases shine)
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eish BASF does not stock POLYQUART H-81 locally
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I support the Lamesoft. tried it at 1% and it worked great in a shampoo for dry hair!
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I do not have lamesoft right now, have used it in the past though. What about liquid leqithin, I have plenty of it (sunflower) and found it in lots of hair products…
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Lamesoft just arrived today. The label recommends to use 2-5% but you said that you did see difference at only 1%. I also order polyquart 7
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@antmagn 1% lamesoft works for me.
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ok thanks I will just add 1%. I guess is better to add it to the surfactant mix. On my last recipe I found that is better to blend the surfs all together first.
So we have:cocoamidopropyl betaine 10%
Lame soft 1%
polysorbate 2% mixed with 2% castor oil3% Glycerine
2% polyquart 7
2% panthenol1% phenoxyethanol
1% guar gum
waterI was thinking if I need to add a bit of citric acid. The ph of the previous shampoo without lamesoft and poly 7 was around 6, I used ph strips though.
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polysorbate 2% mixed with 2% castor oil
Why? This will just ruin the foam. Completely unnecessary. -
I used this in place of PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil but since I got lamesoft now I might omit this. You think lamesoft can emulsify 2% castor oil?
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You just don’t need it. Careful choice of additions will enhance your shampoo, other additions will spoil it.
Lamesoft PO65 but not at more than 1% … effect: softness
Polyquart H81: film former, gives shine, counteracts “limp” hair, gives it more spring. Just 1%.
I suggest, to prove my point, you try making the shampoo with, and without, castor oil, and see for yourself.
If you really want to include an emollient, then get a solubilised or water dispersible one. EG, silicone: Silsense DW-18 is a film former that gives good combing and enhances shine. But Polyquart can also do that - and DW-18 is damn expensive! -
2% Panthenol is too much. It will just get washed down the drain anyway since it’s water soluble.
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