Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating for silky shampoo

  • for silky shampoo

    Posted by Mary24 on February 13, 2018 at 10:11 am

    I made the below formula but I felt my hair not silky or soft as I want if any help in % or materials
    Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate 5%
    cocamidopropyl betaine  10%
    plantacare 1200 5%
    lamesoft 3%
    cetiol HE 1%
    sodium benzotae 0.5%
    polysorbate 80 0.2%
    frag.     0.5%
    Nacl    2%

    also I have in my lab. polyquaternium-7 and guare hydroxy propyl 

    what should I do to make my formula’s application soft and silky feeling >>> using this materials only >>
    thanks in advance

    JOJO91343 replied 6 years, 7 months ago 10 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 13, 2018 at 1:02 pm

    Experiment with different levels of ingredients and add some conditioning ingredients.

    Right now you have no conditioning agents in your formula. Adding PQ7 or Guar might help.

  • belassi

    Member
    February 13, 2018 at 4:10 pm

    Lamesoft isn’t needed at 3%. Use 1%. You can probably get rid of the polysorbate, the surfactants should be able to emulsify the fragrance. Try adding a soluble oil such as soluble shea butter or a dispersible silicone such as Silsense DW-18.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    February 14, 2018 at 12:21 am

    Cationic guar should definitely help with wet/dry combing and leave hair soft and smoothFilm which does not build up lays the cuticle down.

  • Mary24

    Member
    February 14, 2018 at 6:00 am

    what is the recommended % of guar ??? 

  • Mary24

    Member
    February 14, 2018 at 6:37 am

    and I have an observation .. when I used shampoo with guar 0.5% and went outside my hair become terrible !!!  

  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 14, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    That’s about the right amount of Guar, although I typically used 0.2%. 

    What specifically do you mean when you say “my hair becomes terrible”?

  • Mary24

    Member
    February 15, 2018 at 6:48 am

    Perry I mean frizzy hair … and 0.2% not give viscosity and my formula need about 3 gm NaCl I thought it is too much .. what should I do

  • DAS

    Member
    February 15, 2018 at 6:41 pm

    2% salt?. No wonder your hair looks terrible, that’s almost like seawater. Cut the salt and thicken it with something else.

    By the way, if you want a silky hair use silk ;)

    http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/FSS-Foaming-Silk-PF-p/fss20614pf.htm

  • belassi

    Member
    February 15, 2018 at 11:44 pm

    The thing is, you have not said if your hair was chemically treated or not. Dyed hair is usually stringy, frizzy, it isn’t realistic to expect a shampoo to fix that, only a serious conditioner will do the job.

  • student54

    Member
    February 17, 2018 at 2:59 am

    Actually, I know some other Anionic surfactants which can make your hair Silky and soft, but, if you don’t want to use a different Anionic Surfactant, at least, you may remove the first ingredient you have in the formula, and if lamesoft, you are using, has an  anionic sulfated surfactant, you may remove it also.  Some shampoos can be formulated with Amphoteric Surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and Non Ionic Surfactants (Plantaren 1200) only without Anionic Surfactants.  If you want to thicken it up without Salt, you can add cocamide and adjust its % based on the kind of Cocamide you are using 

  • Mary24

    Member
    February 18, 2018 at 6:41 am

    okay I will but your comments in consider gthanks a lot. :blush:
    @student54  : Like what anionic surfactants that can make hair silky and soft  

  • Mary24

    Member
    February 18, 2018 at 7:07 am

    put*

  • student54

    Member
    February 21, 2018 at 10:13 am

    The most famous Anionic Surfactants, currently, are Isethionate family (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, etc) I noticed that formulators and customers like it because of the foam and conditioning effect, but, it could be “Pricey” and it may require adding 10% or more in the formula to be effective

  • Ruben

    Member
    February 22, 2018 at 2:05 am

    @student54 I don’t know a lot about hair, but according to my little understanding, hair is negatively charged and therefore you need a cationic compound to produce a conditioning effect.

  • JOJO91343

    Member
    February 22, 2018 at 2:39 am

    Yes, till recent time, cationic surfactant was used for the purpose of conditioning effect, then, most of the Natural Standards started rejecting it because it’s Quaternary Ammonium Compound. Now, most of the recent formulas started relying on Anionic, Amphoteric, and Non-Ionic Surfactants because Amphoteric Surfactants have both positive and negative charge.  If the medium has high H+ concn. the positive charges, in the medium, will block the negative sites of the Amphoteric Surfactants and the Amphoteric Surfactants will act as a Cationic Surfactant.

  • JOJO91343

    Member
    February 22, 2018 at 2:43 am

    I need to resolve a confusion happened between two User Names: sturdent54 and JOJO91343.  Perry resolved this confusion, recently.  Student54 comments which were posted on Feb. 16 were written by me JOJO91343

  • JOJO91343

    Member
    February 22, 2018 at 9:03 am

    Regarding the Conditioning effect.  If Mary likes to use Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, it will provide dual function: Thickener and Conditioning Agent.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 23, 2018 at 4:46 pm

    I’ll weigh in here - only because I must.  Mary24: ignore all of the above. That 2.0% salt is hindering deposition of both re-fatting agents (Cetiol HE and Lamesoft, and Belassi is right you have too much.) I dare say the Polysorbate 80 isn’t helping either, so take both NaCl and Tween 80 out of there. Your viscosity will improve somewhat also when the Tween 80 is removed and the Lamesoft reduced. Employing a cationic polymer as suggested will likely be a waste of time and money, but try anyway just for kicks. Cationic deposition onto hair is dependent upon coacervation and your surfactant combo will not coacervate much at all. Everyone please read Des Goddard’s book. It will change your life. OK, maybe not your life, but at least your conditioning shampoo formulations.

  • sven

    Member
    February 23, 2018 at 4:59 pm

    @chemicalmatt hope you are well. Please let me have a bit more info on the book title for Des Goddard

  • JOJO91343

    Member
    March 19, 2018 at 10:57 pm

    If you like to try Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, here is the formula I’m referring to : Page 6 in the link
    https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1424771.pdf?bs=581&b=211769&st=1&sl=59477158&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbc29kaXVtIGNvY295bCBpc2V0aGlvbmF0ZV0%3d&k=sodium|cocoyl|isethionate&r=na&ind=personalcare
    In this formula the supplier tried a certain brand of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (ELFAN® AT 84 G) to compare it with the bench mark.  Only non ionic surfactant was used (Decyl Glucoside).  If you like to use other anionic surfactant with Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate or if you like to use Amphoteric Surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine, you may add less of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate based on how much you want to add from the amphoteric surfactant.

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