Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Ferulic acid solvation troubles

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  • Ferulic acid solvation troubles

    Posted by Doreen on May 11, 2017 at 8:00 pm

    Hi,

    When using ferulic acid, I make a slurry with glycerin and water and dissolve it at a very high temperature (>80 C).
    After it dissolves, if it cools down a bit, it immediately starts to ‘reappear’ again, all flaky.
    Should I add propylene glycol for example, and where in the process?

    phase 1:
    0,5% ferulic acid
    4% glycerin
    50% of total % demi water
    Dissolve at >80C.

    phase 2:
    Dissolve
    5% niacinamide
    3% panthenol
    2% N-acetyl-glucosamine
    in the rest of the water. Add to phase 1 = phase 3.

    phase 3:
    Add 1% hyaluronic acid (high molecular weight) to the mixture.Mix and let hydrate for a few hours.

    phase 4:
    Add 0,5 tocopherol to 3% polysorbate 80.
    Add to phase 3.
    Add 0,7% Cosgard (benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid)

    Where in this process should I add something like propylene glycol to avoid this problem, or is there another way (without the use of alcohol).
    I had hoped it would remain dissolved in the glycerin, but I didn’t think this one through enough.
    * Another question: doesn’t the high temperature affect the ferulic acid in a bad way? I know tocopherol is sensitive to heat and panthenol racemizes above 70C, but what about the other ingredients?

    Thanks again.

    Gabriella replied 1 week ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 11, 2017 at 8:43 pm

    Throw some Sodium Lactate into your Phase 1 … perhaps 3% or so.  That usually helps Ferulic Acid stay in solution.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 12:08 am

    you can add ferulic acid as premix with propanediol and add to phase one

  • Doreen

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 5:16 am

    @MarkBroussard, @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    I’ll try the sodium lactate first, since I don’t have propanediol right now. 
    Thanks for helping me out! :-)

    Strange… I have two charges of ferulic acid, one has a pleasant smell and is slightly orange, the other is colourless and odorless. Have you ever had a difference like that between charges of ferulic acid?

  • johnb

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 6:41 am

    You may find that ferulic acid is soluble in a niacinamide solution. Try altering your process to include the two ingredients together to dissolve in a small amount of water before adding anything else.

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 7:10 am

    @Doreen81 the colour and odour will vary depending on how pure it is, and how much it’s oxidised over time

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    May 15, 2017 at 8:30 pm

    @Doreen81 Should have raw material specs for color and odor to avoid using prematurely oxidized FA.

  • Doreen

    Member
    May 16, 2017 at 10:23 am

    @Bill_Toge, @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ,
    Just googled on the specifics. Lotioncrafter states it should be: “white or light brownish yellow crystalline powder with a mild pleasant odor”
    Could it be the more colour and scent, the higher the purity?

    @johnb ,
    Thanks, I will try this! Do I still need to dissolve these at a high temperature then? I don’t know if niacinamide is stable at temperatures above 80 C.

  • johnb

    Member
    May 16, 2017 at 1:44 pm

    Regarding the ferulic/niacinamide notion - this is only a thought, I don’t know for certain it will work and I have mislaid my ferulic acid sample to check it out. I do know that certain other materials, related to ferulic acid, form water soluble complexes with niacinamide.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    May 16, 2017 at 1:48 pm

    The more color and off odor scent means oxidation.

  • Gabriella

    Member
    September 8, 2024 at 7:51 am

    Hi Doreen, I had the same issue for a long time and found a solution. I mixed 30% 1,3-propanediol with 0.5% ferulic acid and then added all the water content of the formula which in my case was 53.5%. I heated this solution at about 80°C for 15-20 minutes. After this I added my other ingredients in the cool down phase. The pH was around 3.5. I have kept the solution at refrigerated temperature without any visibly noticable crystallization.

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