• Formulating

  Face mask makes my skin red - suggestions for adjustments?

  Posted by lone on December 30, 2019 at 8:57 am

  I am a DIY and only creating skincare for my self and friends/family.
  I have created a face mask, which feels the way I’d like it to feel on the skin, but I have noticed that it makes my skin turn red. I have redness on the skin after using the face mask. No itch or burning sensation, but redness only. 
  My intention with the face mask is to add hydration and softness to the skin, no deep cleanse or anything like that. I’d like to keep the mask on my face for approx 15 minutes and then rinse it off with water.

  I just read another resent post with a lotion creating a burn, which was due to the preservative. But in this case it is more about the skin turning red and besides I’m using another preservative, so I’m hoping to get other suggestions of what I must change in this formulation. Perhaps I have overlooked something, which does not go well together, or eventhough I have reviewed this and should be within recommended usage levels; something must be wrong.

  pH is 4,4.

  5 Glycerin

  1 HEC  - Hydroxyethylcellulose

   

  61,7 Demineralized
  water

  2 Sorbitol

  2 Sodium
  lactate

  1 Gluconolactone

  3 Centella
  Asiatica

  1 Ectoin

   

  4 Natragem
  EW - Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/ Succinate (and) Cetearyl
  Alcohol

  10 Macadamia
  oil

  3 Prunus
  Domestica oil

  2 Shea
  butter  Butyrospermum Parkii

  3 Brassica
  Oleracea Italica seed Oil

   

  0,3 Potassium
  sorbate

  1 Geogard
  221, Dehydroacetic Acid & Benzyl Alcohol

  I appreciate any input at all - and I’d like to express my thanks to this forum, where I often read and look up suggestions and input on formulations and materials. There are so much to learn and this is a great source to help and input  

  lone replied 5 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
• 4 Replies

• 

  Dr Catherine Pratt

  Member

  December 30, 2019 at 12:44 pm

  Maybe your pH is too low for your face, how long do you leave it on for?? 4.4 is a bit low for me! Hope this helps

• 

  EVchem

  Member

  December 30, 2019 at 2:35 pm

  I’d agree on the pH possibly being too low. You can always try a knockout experiment if you have the resources to make several small batches.

  Unfortunately my best guess here would be the preservative again, benzyl alcohol has been reported for irritation (although usually at high levels and  in few people). You might be a lucky one of the people sensitive to it. Maybe ask some people to test it (preferably not all over the face in case it is irritating, I often try the inside of my elbow)

  Here is a safety report on it that goes into great detail
  https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/PR574.pdf

• 

  belassi

  Member

  December 30, 2019 at 9:50 pm

  I seem to recall that potassium sorbate has been reported as causing flushing?

• 

  lone

  Member

  December 31, 2019 at 9:04 am

  Thank you very much, every one! There is much I can test out now based on your input.

  I leave the mask on for 15 or 20 minutes - but I have seen redness perhaps already after 10 minutes. I want to make changes, so I can stick to this mask-experience care, where I can leave the mask on for this time without any redness or other problems.

  I will try all your suggestions - I have enough raw material to try different batches. I’ll test with higher pH and same preservative. But I will also test with another preservative, at the moment I also have Dermasoft 1388 (Glycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Sodium Anisate) and I can support this with Glyceryl Caprylate.

  I also have both Rokonsal (but includes benzyl alcohol) and phenoxyethanol, but will leave that out as well. Perhaps I will use these preservatives for body care products. 

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