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Emulsion theory and thickening in the context of GMS and Fatty alcohols
Aloha.
As I have disavowed KISS formulating… 😉 … I have had to revamp two product that just got away from typical emulsion stability. One of the fixes has been the use of anionic SSG (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate) as a co-emulsifier. SSG has an assigned HLB value of approximately 23…. so way out there on the traditional spectrum of emulsifiers…and possibly why it is so good.
I understand that HLB is an antiquated system that was primarily applied to ethoxylated emulsifiers, but I believe there are still some applicable concepts that apply to modern non-ethoxylated formulas.
So, for the illustration…. the primary emulsifier is Mont 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) which has an assigned HLB value of approximately 10. (If you are wondering what dictated the pairing… final product has a pH in the range of 3.8 to 4.2.)
I also understand the profound difference between a fatty alcohol and GMS, even though I seem to toss them into the same conversation.
So, first question 1) With the addition of an ultra-high HLB emulsifier (SSG @ 23), to this mix, would this logically precipitate the need of a low HLB emulsifier, in this case GMS. Obviously, many emulsifiers use fatty alcohols to create the structuring value of the low HLB emulsifier…. including the said example of Mont 68. I see two considerations for outcomes. I am already using large amounts of added fatty alcohols as this is a cream…so in the range of around 3.5%. Does this allow for the addition of the high HLB emulsifier without additional considerations? The other outcome would suggest, adding some GMS (BTW…I use a 90+ percent mono) to ‘balance’ the high HLB?
The aspects I have to consider are 1) Is an entirely fatty alcohol solution…the most robust solution? 2) Is an entirely fatty alcohol solution the best from a haptic perspective? Consideration #1, being the most important.
The second consideration would be creating a solution of a reduction of fatty alcohols and the addition of GMS. Same considerations…. is this the most robust solution, and does it ‘feel’ better or worse?
I realize I have already exceeded most folks ‘word count limit’, as @chemicalmatt might say about George Deckner’s blurbs on prospector. But while I have your ear…I have one other encompassing concept…I just can’t seem to find solid answers to.
One of the products I am tweaking is a cream deodorant. With a deodorant…there are some different considerations from typical cosmetics. I do not want strong barrier and occlusion, as I believe this sometimes results in additional sweating. So, in your experience… looking at Cetyl, cetearyl, behenyl alcohols, and GMS….. which provides the lightest and most breathable skin film/barrier? What is best what is worst in your experience? I have a love affair with behenyl….as I hate greasy haptics… but will consider all options in the pursuit of excellence.
Love to hear thoughts on the topics of… considerations of adding high HLB co-emulsifiers and ramifications/adjustments…. and which structuring agent will provide the most breathable….almost not there… haptics.
Aloha
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