Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulsifying Hand Cream advice needed

  • Emulsifying Hand Cream advice needed

    Posted by docsimple on January 20, 2018 at 4:27 am

    I’m trying to make a light and airy hand cream from honey, aloe gel, oil and water. I have a homogenizing mixer so shear intensity is there but I am having issues getting my proportions right and keep getting to watery or to oily. Can’t seem to find that happy place!

    Any help, even general advice for emulsifying happily accepted.

    Thanks!

    em88 replied 6 years, 10 months ago 8 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 1:49 pm

    the root cause of the problem is that you don’t have anything in the mixture which can chemically or physically emulsify the oil into the water; you need a surface-active material of some kind

  • belassi

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 4:16 pm

    Honey is going to make it the very opposite of “light and airy”. Instead, think sticky and heavy. As Bill said above, you need an emulsifier.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 4:25 pm

    You need both an emulsifier and Rheology modifier and you can do both using a carbomer such as Ultrez 10 neutralizing the latter with equal parts by weight with triethanolamine or if you choose another base to Ph 5.5-.6.0.Does not require a lot of shear to produce cream with good sensorials. 

  • Doreen

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 5:37 pm

    Tip: an easy emulsifier for beginners is Emulsifying Wax NF (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60).

  • docsimple

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 7:58 pm

    ok, so here is the deal. We got a hand cream (purchased) and I have been reading the ingredients and thinking the same thing - no way without an emulsifier. At this point I would say I’m about 80% sure their label is complete fabrication. 
    How can you list honey as the first ingredient and aloe gel as the second and have a pure white very light cream? 

    Thank you all for the help. Not sure what to do now, if anything. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 8:50 pm

    Post the product. In many cases, the ingredient declaration could be incomplete or the emulsifier is in there, but it requires more experience with the raw materials to see it in the listing.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    January 21, 2018 at 1:42 am

    If, for example, it’s this or something similar to this:

    https://www.etsy.com/listing/195354106/organic-hands-cream-honey-and-aloe-honey

    Materials: raw honey, aloe vera, olive oil, almond oil, geranium blossoms water, rosemary, grapefruit

    There are significant issues with the accuracy of this ingredient listing.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    January 21, 2018 at 4:33 am

    From BobxChemist’s link, down the page, they list the actual ingredient list versus their misleading “marketing” description. It makes a good bit more sense despite still being inaccurate regarding INCI names.

    Ingredients: Geranium Blossoms Water, 100% Bio Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Pure Unrifined Beeswax, Vegetable Emulsifier Wax, Raw Honey, Bio Aloe Vera Gel, Grapefruit Essential Oil, Rosemary Essential Oil.

  • docsimple

    Member
    January 21, 2018 at 6:46 am

    these people do not have better list. Also I have seen this product labeled differently and I am suspecting its a pre-made cream just with a different label from a mass-producer.

    https://honeybeecream.com/products/honeybee

  • Doreen

    Member
    January 21, 2018 at 10:26 am

    Do you have a jar or can you get one? Aren’t they obliged to put the INCI names in a LOI on the package?

    Edit: I see that you’ve purchased the cream. So they can get away with an incorrect LOI on the package?

    Wow, those homemade products on Etsy are expensive! 😮

  • em88

    Member
    January 22, 2018 at 10:33 am

    “Wow, those homemade products on Etsy are expensive! :-o”
    Noticed the same thing! 
    Time to turn the kitchen into a “lab”? lol

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