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Emulsifiers… cus I’ve lost my damn mind
Hey guys!
I’m still working on the same recipe. I’ve done a ton of research and was hoping you guys could look at what I’m doing and just tell me if I’m doing anything wrong (also… not totally sure if I got the placement of ingredients right… but when you’re working with mixed ingredients… what do ya do?).
Since I posted last this is what I ended up with:
Theobroma grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Seed Butter, Aqua (Water), Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt), Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Methylsulfonylmethane (OptiMSM), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Zinc Oxide (Non-Nano), Virola Sebifer (Ucuuba) Seed Butter, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Extract, Cetearyl Olivate, Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Glycerin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Avena Sativa (Oat Kernel) Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tochopherol (Vitamin E), Bambusa Vulgaris (Bamboo) Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Essential Oil, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Essential OilI’m looking at changing the emulsifier (Cetearyl Olivate/Sorbitan Olivate @ 2.65%) with Glyceryl Monostearate (perhaps also Glyceryl Oleate). Glyceryl Monostearate has a *sellable* “purpose” (idk, they say it’s good for reducing post work-out fatigue/ache? Who knows if that’s even true… maybe I just like trying out new ingredients?).
I was also looking at replacing the wax @ 1.76% with Boswellia Sacra (Frankincense) Resin - sounded like this was the safest form of Frankincense and there’s not really any information to suggest it causes irritation or allergy but I kinda feel like this is a bit high? I did a run with White Lotus Wax, but it’s expensive and hard to find and everything that’s accessible is… of course, a known contact allergen (I was really disappointed with lavender). Also adding four steam distilled essential oils: Leptospermum Scoparium, Vetiveria Zizanioides, Matricaria Chamomilla, Calendula Officinalis.I’ve considered scrapping several parts of this (oats, aloe, bamboo, allatoin) - but some add to the interest of the product (especially as I am running gluten-free claims using Montana Gluten-Free Oats (thus why it’s an extract now…). As we can see there’s so many skin soothers I just went nuts. On the bright side: not a single tester had any problems with the test batch. There was one complaint about grit. There’s no way that I didn’t have enough water to dissolve… but I may have applied too much heat - either way, I increased the glycerin content (hopefully no one notices, lol) and be a little more gentle with the water phase next time. I suppose I could also try tempering it more… but it really seems like two cool down + blend should be enough. Though perhaps a blender wasn’t my best choice and I should be using an immersion blender? (Maybe eventually I’ll get something fancy but this it what I’m working with). I did add more water to make up the water loss - I did add this as room temperature distilled water.
I figure if I can’t get this to go away (/need a stronger solvent), I might market it as dermabrasion (I am marketing this for Psoriasis, and we did see a reduction in thickness of plaques in the test group… albiet, VERY SMALL test group (I’m making this at home, don’t expect too much from me, k?)) and call it a day. ?
I magically avoided every ingredient poo-pooed by EWG (I have a level of frustration…) and pulled off also missing every known contact allergen. The only thing that’s possibly irritating is the ginger EO… but it smells so much better with it in it, so I’m keeping it!Also, my preservative (Caprylhydroxamic acid/glyceryl caprylate/glycerin) is at 1.15% (excluding the extra glycerin which is taking up about 1.5%). The entire water phase should… theoretically be completely used up with minerals + extracts to the glycerin. Wonder if this is too much and I could or should drop it down (suggested use 1-1.2%, so I’m right in there obviously).pH came out to 5.5… just perfect but I’m not sure if more essential oils will throw that off (each one will be no more than 0.5%)If I’ve totally lost it, feel free to thwack me.
Thanks for your time and thoughts. I appreciate it.
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