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Emulsifier for low-viscous serum
I want to make my first serum and have it be with less than 10% oils, maybe even closer to 5%. I am looking for an emulsifier to use that can do it’s job while providing a lightweight feel and thin consistency. Doing some research I came across sucrose stearate and olivem 1000 as possible candidates, are there any other good ones?
I am trying to keep it “natural” and avoid polymers for this one.
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4 Replies
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Olivem 1000 may be a possible choice depending on how low you want the viscosity to be. I have found in my experiments with it that sometimes it can make emulsions too thick. I had a better experience using Olivem 800 (Cetearth-6 Olivate) when I wanted a low viscosity.
Another option may be “Natural Emulsifier 146” (Cyclodextrin, Sorbitol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) AKA Beauté by Roquette® DS 146.
It is a cold-process emulsifier, and although I haven’t experimented with it that much yet, I have made some really lightweight, low viscosity spray-lotions containing 5-10% oils using it. I imagine adding something like a cellulose polymer (HEC) to it would create a nice serum.
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You can look for a liquid emulsifier blend or non-bodying emulsifier blend. For example from Making Cosmetics, the CreamMaker® FLUID. Or Montanov L or 202 for non / low bodying solid blends.
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Sucrose Stearate will give you a water-thin emulsion, but I have found that you generally need to use a co-emulsifier for added stability. You can use something as simple as Glyceryl Stearate at 1.0% + Sucrose Stearate at 4.0%, for instance.
Olivem 1000 is more appropriate for a fluid lotion, but you could try it at 1% combined with Sucrose Stearate at 4.0%.
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Awesome thanks for the input everyone I will try these out
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