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Efficacy of different MWs of hyaluronic acids
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Leo said:Has anyone tried to formulate the HAs in an anhydrous formulation or deliver the HAs in a powder form? Any unique delivery systems been tried?Leo said:@Perry. Does HA mix well with glycerin? What other agents will mix with the HAs that contain no water?May I ask why do you not want to use water?
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@Perry I do not follow the party line about HAs since I am skeptical until proof of adequate scientific quality is provided.
I do not believe that topical HAs do anything other than sit on top of the SC and provide and/or accumulate water from either the product itself which contains water or the atmosphere.
This may not be a good thing for healthy skin since it leads to a disruption of an SC barrier integrity. Why disrupt the SC barrier with water? Skin, like hair, needs oil and not water unless the intent is disrupt the natural oil-based barrier.
I have a different idea-to use the HAs to grab water from the atmosphere and have the HAs remove water before it disrupts the barrier-use HAs as a protectant from water-so why would I want to provide water with a HA ingredient that has been saturated with water? Once HAs are saturated with water, they are more harmful than good-unless your intent is to damage the natural barrier.
If you believe that the HAs penetrate the SC barrier and bring with it water, which I do not, and HAs enter the dermis, which I do not, then the HAs would go into the skin fully saturated with water, damage the barrier and produce leaky skin followed by a cascade of water-infused events with water going in and out of the skin affecting permeability.
However, it is my view that HAs only function from outside the skin by grabbing water and not allowing atmospheric water to harm the SC -if not already fully saturated with water.
So- why add water to a HA formulation. It defeats the purpose of its purported activity!
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I do not believe that topical HAs do anything other than sit on top of the SC and provide and/or accumulate water from either the product itself which contains water or the atmosphere.
This may not be a good thing for healthy skin since it leads to a disruption of an SC barrier integrity. Why disrupt the SC barrier with water? Skin, like hair, needs oil and not water unless the intent is disrupt the natural oil-based barrier.
I have a different idea-to use the HAs to grab water from the atmosphere and have the HAs remove water before it disrupts the barrier-use HAs as a protectant from water-so why would I want to provide water with a HA ingredient that has been saturated with water? Once HAs are saturated with water, they are more harmful than good-unless your intent is to damage the natural barrier.
If you believe that the HAs penetrate the SC barrier and bring with it water, which I do not, and HAs enter the dermis, which I do not, then the HAs would go into the skin fully saturated with water, damage the barrier and produce leaky skin followed by a cascade of water-infused events with water going in and out of the skin affecting permeability.
However, it is my view that HAs only function from outside the skin by grabbing water and not allowing atmospheric water to harm the SC -if not already fully saturated with water.
So- why add water to a HA formulation. It defeats the purpose of its purported activity!
Then Glycerin and other water-soluble molecule is damaging the SC barrier too? This make me concerned.
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Glycerin and HAs do not damage the SC barrier since they are not absorbed unless the SC barrier is disrupted. They sit on top of the skin and grab water from the atmosphere like a sponge and keep the SC barrier intact. If they occlude the barrier, they may prevent TEWL. I think of them as protectants from the damaging effects of water on the SC. I fail to understand all the marketing hype around the HAs….no better than glycerin.
Look, every 10-20 years, the marketers come up with an idea to make certain that cheap and effective ingredients get a bad rap so they can introduce expensive ingredients with sexy unproven science. We did this with mineral oil, petrolatum, silicones, etc., and the list gets larger-the marketers and ingredient companies have to make a living -right? We just follow the party line and formulate their expensive sexy unproven stuff like good soldiers. These days, it is all about the story and not whether it works or not or whether it is any better than the old stuff….
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