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Duping a Niacinamide formula, few questions
<div>So I am looking at duping the below formula for a fun test, it’s a 20% “clinical” Niacinamide serum.</div><div>
I am just wondering what are the BS ingredients vs what you think are helpful, aside from the basics, niacin, preservative, etc.?
I pulled a bunch of stuff out and added HA to mine. Please let me know what you think.
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Sample formula:
Water (Aqua), Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin,
Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice)
Root Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Extract, Portulaca Oleracea
(Purslane) Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Epigallocatechin
Gallate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea)
Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Pullulan, Panthenol, Silica, Xanthan
Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol,
EthylhexylglycerinMy formula:
Water (Aqua), Niacinamide, Glycerin,
Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hyaluronic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea
(Purslane) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea)
Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol,
Ethylhexylglycerin</div>
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9 Replies
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All the extracts - out.
Glycerin only can give tacky feeling, their mix of Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin is probably better in sensorial meaning. For example Pentylene Glycol gives interesting effect of “water that is more watery than water”. But functionality I don’t think it matters.
Also, I feel like 20% is too much. 5% is a sweat spot referenced in every paper I saw. 20% feels like number marketing (to beat other brands with 5%, 10%, 15% percents). But if you can handle it and you like it - it is up to you.
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All great replies, thank you.
All the extracts out? Is there any you would recommend to add?
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All. Extract are very diluted substances. If you want specific benefit use dedicated ingredient.
Read more here: https://desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com/plant-extracts-plant-extract-isolates-the-1-percent-rule/
desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Plant Extracts & Plant Extract Isolates In Clean Beauty
Plant Extracts It is very common to look at the List Of Ingredients of a cosmetic product and see a wide variety of plant extracts included in the product and the marketing descriptions extoll the benefits of the plant extracts. … Continue reading
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Greetings experienced people????
I formulated an o/w cream, and I did the stability tests, and it is stable, and I wanted from the same formula to reduce 4% of the water and to put niacinamide instead, so there the cream certainly has a very good texture but testing it with centrifugation at 3500 rpm for 30 min then there is a separation. can someone guide me? I tried two formulation methods 1: dilute niacinamide in the water of the aqueous phase and emulsify by controlling the temperature (not exceeding 75°C) and the 2nd: add niacinamide to the cold phase but always separation of the emulsion. what is wrong here?
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You have not provided enough information to generate an intelligent response. Please consider listing the formula…especially the emulsifier used, the emulsion builders, and percentages. Equipment used in the process, and time frames can also be critical.
Niacinamide does not have strong history of destabilizing emulsions.
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Please don’t hijack other’s question to get answer for yours. Create a new thread ????
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Hi,
I agree on this with farleoz. I have read a study in the past - on science direct as I can recall - in which they examined different concentrations of niacinamide, it’s effectiveness and possible side-effects. The conclusion was that above 5% the sebum reducing efficacy does not improve but side effects and sensitation happen more frequently. Personally I don’t think that the marketing trend of using really high percentages (much above their efficacy) of actives is sustainable - at least I hope it won’t last for long.
If you only have water phase in your product, glycerin (and also higher content of HA) can feel tacky, it depends on what percentages you use and whith wich ingredients. In theese cases I often use glycerin in combination with propanediol or pentylene glycol - theese two not only help in improving the skin feel but to boost the preservative system. You can also use lactic-acid-sodium lactate buffer or other ingredients to improve skin feel and have other benefits (keep in mind, with nicainamide, your best option is to have a final pH of 5.5-6 to improve it’s stability).
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B3 levels much above 4%…is just for bragging rights…and pushing irritation (beyond 10%). The extracts are all for claim. If you want to replace the Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice)Root Extract with Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, you might get a bit of benefit.
Granted it is hard to sell your potion…if you don’t have some claim ingredients to hang your story on….so add a few in at .1, .01, or .001%…..so you can create the sugar plum fairy land that the customer now demands.
You could also consider adding some NAG to go with you B3… might land a study reader as a customer. ????
Green Tea anything will give you discoloration issues…through the product shelf life…consider removing it now…and thanking me later. 🙂
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(Their Green Tea…is well below the 1% line…so probably in there at .01%.)
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