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Discolouration of Cream
Hello All I want to take opinion from all of you I am having problem with O/W based cream the color of the cream turns brown after 25-30 days Can any one help me on this.
The ingredients of cream are as follows Palmitic Acid Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl palmitate Octyl methoxy cinnamate Avobenzone Kojic Acid Dipalmitate EDTA Glucose ZnO Alluminium hydroxide TiO2 ODA Xanthane gum Vitamin B3 Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate Allontoin Potassium Hydroxide Vitamin E Aristoflex velvet Glycerine Phenonip Silicone Oil Perfume Distilled water
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11 Replies
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Degradation of vitamin C.
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I agree with you @Belassi. In addition, you have kojic acid dipalmitate which also degrades. Even thought this is a more stable form of kojic acid (which turns yellow in a week), it still turns to an off white after a while.
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Hello dear formulators, my question: there is no Ascorbic acid (vit C) in the formulation supplied by Shujah. does it produced due to reaction?
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There is a more stable Vitamin C derivative (Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate). While it is more stable, it can certainly degrade over time, especially if formulated at an improper pH.
I would suggest reading a summary article about Vitamin C, it’s derivatives and the proper Formulation techniques. This is a huge area and it seems some more reading in regards to the topic could be beneficial.
The final pH of this product would be great to know, especially when you also consider the pH requirements of Niacinamide (improperly listed as Vitamin B3) which is in the Formulation. There are several other improper nomenclatures in the ingredient deck as well.
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Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate, Dilfre. I use a more stable form, sodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate, but it costs $2400 per kilo.
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thank you Belassi.
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The final pH of the cream is 6.49
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Microformulator: Can you name the improper nomenclature in the ingredients list?
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Your ingredient deck should be from ingredient at the highest percentage to the lowest percentage in descending order. After the 1% line you may list them in any order although I was trained to leave preservative, colors and fragrances at the end. Looking at your ingredient list, I don’t believe it is in this order.
Your nomenclature should use INCI notation. Even in this case, INCI notation would be more helpful. Some examples of non-INCI notation;
- EDTA. Was this Disodium EDTA or Tetrasodium EDTA? They are different products and used at different pH levels.
- Vitamin B3. This is incorrect. The proper INCI name is Niacinamide.
- Vitamin E. This should be most likely Tocopherol.
- Aristoflex velvet. This is a trade name, not an INCI name. The INCI name for this material is Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11. Trade names are never used in an Ingredient deck.
- Phenonip is another Trade name. The INCI name is likely
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben, although there are other types of Phenonip (It is a line of preservatives from Clariant. In this case it is especially important as your customers will want to know the contents of the product. Parabens are a touchy but controversial subject but you do need complete transparency. - Silicone Oil. With the information here, there is no way of knowing what Silicone oil is. It is actually the first time I have seen that nomenclature. You would want to determine which silicone you used and then notate the proper INCI name.
- Perfume. This is not the correct nomenclature. In the US/North America it would be recorded as “Fragance” and in the EU as “Parfum.” This assumes you used a premade synthetic fragrance. If you used Essential oils, the INCI name for each Essential oil would be used.
- Distilled Water. The INCI is simply Water. Through proper practices and knowledge you will select an appropriate type of water. This however is not reflected in the Ingredient declaration.
- Various misspellings but I will not dwell on those as they could be easily corrected.
I know this sounds picky, but it gives the appropriate information to your clients, would better demonstrate to other Formulators what you use, is technically correct and abides with FDA Guidelines. There are similar guidelines in the EU.
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Here are a few errors in the list.
ZnO - This should be spelled out (Zinc Oxide)
Alluminium hydroxide - spelled wrong. Aluminium
TiO2 - This should be spelled out (Titanium Dioxide)
ODA - What is this?
Xanthane gum - Xanthan Gum
Allontoin - spelled wrong. It’s Allantoin
Aristoflex velvet - Trade name. INCI name is Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Phenonip - This is a trade name not a proper INCI name
Silicone Oil - This isn’t a proper INCI name
Distilled water - It’s supposed to be listed as Water (Aqua), not distilled water. -
That pH might be a little high for a topical, arguably. However being that SAP is most stable at a pH of 6.5, I would not aggressively adjust the pH,. SAP is recommended with a buffering system. These can be a bit tricky, but if you review your Chem 101, the concept will come back to you.
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