Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating DEODORANT- some help, please

  • DEODORANT- some help, please

    Posted by Aniela on November 5, 2024 at 1:35 am


    Hello to you all,

    I’d really want to try a creamy deo, so I’ve settled for this formula (Evonik’s) as my new experiment.

    As I haven’t used some of the ingredients till now, your help is much appreciated on the following:

    1. Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate, according to the manufacturer, is “a mild vegetable based cosmetic co-emulsifier with anti-microbial properties especially beneficial for the use in AP/Deo formulations. It reliably reduces odor-causing bacteria on the skin at very low concentrations, while being non-irritating and non-sensitizing to the skin.”

    I do not have it, nor can I source it. Should I leave it out, or would Glyceryl Caprylate, used at same %, be a good substitute?

    2. I’m thinking to settle for a pH of 4.8- would this be an appropiate pH for this formula?

    3. Is it ok to replace the preservative they use with Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin(0.8%), plus Sodium benzoate(0.2%)?

    Should I add TGDA (0.2%) too (I don’t have, nor can I source EDTA)?

    Thank you very much for taking your time to help.

    A Water, deionized(Aqua) 81.33%

    Glycerin 99,5%, 5.00%

    Trisodium Citrate Dihydrate(Sodium Citrate) 0.30%

    B Xanthan Gum 0.90%

    Carrageenan 0.10%

    C Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 0.40%

    Apricot Kernel Oil 0.50%

    Decalact deo (Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate; Salvia Officinalis Oil)

    0.30%

    Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate 0.30%

    Isoamyl Laurate 0.50%

    Triethy citrate 5.0%

    Zinc Ricinoleate 1.0%

    D Perfume 0.30%

    Aqua; Glycerin; Heptylglycerin; Sodium Anisate

    2.60%

    Citric Acid, 20% sol. 1.47%

    • This discussion was modified 2 weeks, 2 days ago by  Aniela.
    Aniela replied 1 week, 1 day ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    November 11, 2024 at 3:13 pm

    I surmise you have not actually compounded this in your laboratory yet? Whatever, see if you can get hold of Polyglcyeryl-4 Caprate or Polyglcyeryl-4 Stearate. Use either at >1.0% with that GSC too. Also I might add triethyl citrate (5.0%? yikes!) and zinc ricinoleate are doing 99% of the deodorizing there so DEL that “decalact deo” stuff, save some coin. And yes, you may SUB in euxyl9010. If you do so you won’t need all that citric acid/sodium citrate either - but then you will need to add TGDA since buffered citric acid was doing double-duty as the chelant there.

    • Fekher

      Member
      November 12, 2024 at 2:04 pm

      Do you think that only 5% TEC at pH <5 can make efficient deodorant?

      • Aniela

        Member
        November 13, 2024 at 3:12 am

        It is just an attempt to a cream-deo🙂

        I will del the Decalact and raise the Zn ricinoleate to 2% and see how that performs.

        Currently I’m using a gel-deo which contains 3% potassium alum and 4% triethyl citrate- it performs pretty well.

        If I’m not aiming for an antiperspirant, is it any other ingredient I should look for, please?

        Thank you.

    • Aniela

      Member
      November 13, 2024 at 2:52 am

      Thank you @chemicalmatt ,

      Indeed I didn’t make any attempts to it- so I will see what can I source here from what you’ve suggested.

      Much appreciated.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    November 12, 2024 at 4:49 am

    Total BS

    “…anti-microbial properties especially beneficial for the use in AP/Deo formulations. It reliably reduces odor-causing bacteria…”

    as is the preservative system

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by  PhilGeis.
    • Aniela

      Member
      November 13, 2024 at 3:19 am

      Thank you, Dr Geis, I agree- I was just giving more details to make it clear why they introduced the ingredient in the formula, as I was asking for a substitute suggestion.

      As for the preservative system, I’m going to use PE9010, sodium benzoate, and TGDA.

      • PhilGeis

        Member
        November 13, 2024 at 3:55 am

        thanks - and it’s Phil

        • Aniela

          Member
          November 13, 2024 at 4:11 am

          Can’t promise, but I’ll try- “old school” education doesn’t die easy.

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