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crystallized lip balm
having an issue with a lip balm thats crystallizing.
castor oil 55%
mango butter 10%
jojoba oil 22%
oil dispersed HA 2%
silica dimethyl silylate 8%
stevia in coconut oil blend 3%
im assuming the issue is the stevia or the mango butter but i cant remove either if those. is there anything i can add or do during processing to prevent the crystallization? or is there something im missing? it forms tiny crystals homogeneously through the product
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5 Replies
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It could be stevia- I’m not familiar with the blend, but could it be that quality differs according to source? I’m asking because the ones I’ve found are recommended to be added at 0.1%, so 30 times lower than what’s in your formula.
It could also be the hydrogenated oil part of your HA ingredient as it has such a high melting point- did you added it in the system at 80-85C as per manufacturer’s guidance?
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Yeah, probably the mango butter.
Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids prevent recrystalization of butters.
Try Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate or Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate.
https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/polyglycerine/2042-polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate-pgpr.html
https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/polyglycerine/10707-polyglyceryl-6-oleate.html
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Polyglyceryl esters are also soaping much, aren’t they? Hence their use in oil-to-milk cleansing oils/balms.
I’d avoid mango butter altogether. All the oil-based formulas with it have that recrystalization issue, as is the case with Shea butter. Plus they oxidize in the blink of an eye! I’d only use them below 0.10% if I ever had to.
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You really are at the maximum input for the mango butter. I would suggest lowering it if stevia is not the culprit. Are you in a cold or hot environment? If freeze/thaw caused the ‘crystalization’ it is likely that mango butter is your culprit. Every time the mango butter melts and resolidifies the fatty acids will all solidify at different rates, thus what appears to be ‘grains’ or ‘crystals’
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You should also use the right amount of tocopherols (see manufacturers recommendations-use the max) with all that natural mango butter. Do not use the acetate form of tocopherols it will not help with oxidation.
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