Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair conditioner that gave me a headache and spin

  • conditioner that gave me a headache and spin

    Posted by shuchi on November 6, 2019 at 9:15 am

    Hi,

    I was quite impressed with the look, feel and fragrance of my conditioner. On trying it, I instantly got a headache and felt slightly tipsy for a while. Will be happy to bust the possible error in my formulation which was as below:

    D/w 67.6%
    Glycerin 1.5%
    Aloe gel 1.5%
    Xanthum gum - q.s

    Stearic acid and glycol stearate 4%
    BTMS 50 -0.92%
    Grapeseed oil+ Argan oil+ Sweet almond oil - 2%

    Dimethicone - 1.5%
    Cetrimonium chloride - 1.5%
    M paraben - 0.80%
    fragrance - 0.50%
    citric acid - 0.10%

    shuchi replied 5 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • shuchi

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 9:17 am

    shuchi said:

    Hi,

    I was quite impressed with the look, feel and fragrance of my conditioner. On trying it, I instantly got a headache and felt slightly tipsy for a while. Will be happy to bust the possible error in my formulation which was as below:

    D/w 67.6%
    Glycerin 1.5%
    Aloe gel 1.5%
    Xanthum gum - q.s

    Stearic acid and glycol stearate 4%
    BTMS 50 -0.92%
    Grapeseed oil+ Argan oil+ Sweet almond oil - 2%

    Dimethicone - 1.5%
    Cetrimonium chloride - 1.5%
    M paraben - 0.80%
    fragrance - 0.50%
    citric acid - 0.10%

    Also, I found that the hair has become dry and doesnt feel smooth and slippery.

  • EVchem

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 12:27 pm

    the xanthan gum does not provide a great feel for hair- what exactly do you ‘qs’ to?
     you could bump up the btms to maybe 3%
    aloe does nothing take it out
    oils will more likely weigh hair down than provide a conditioning benefit

    as for the symptoms you describe, my only guess is the fragrance was too strong and gave you a headache- try a fragrance-free version

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 12:33 pm

    @EVchem Thanks so much.  :) Is there anything I could do to correct it or should I discard the batch? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 12:52 pm

    Xanthan is anionic! Don’t mix cationic and anionic ingredients unless they are specifically designed for it. It has nothing to do with your symptoms but xanthan doesn’t belong to conditioner.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 1:34 pm

    @shuchi - No, you can’t correct that batch. If it’s just personal use, you could try blending it off with other batches over time. For example, blend 10 parts a new batch with 1 part of the bad batch.  This is what large manufacturers will sometimes do if the ingredient list allows for it.

    Or you could just discard it.

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 1:49 pm

    @ngarayeva001 @Perry Thank you very much for the expert advice. :) shall discard the batch and start over again. Many thanks.

  • Gunther

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 9:19 pm

    shuchi said:

    Hi,

    I was quite impressed with the look, feel and fragrance of my conditioner. On trying it, I instantly got a headache and felt slightly tipsy for a while. Will be happy to bust the possible error in my formulation which was as below:

    D/w 67.6%
    Glycerin 1.5%
    Aloe gel 1.5%
    Xanthum gum - q.s

    Stearic acid and glycol stearate 4%
    BTMS 50 -0.92%
    Grapeseed oil+ Argan oil+ Sweet almond oil - 2%

    Dimethicone - 1.5%
    Cetrimonium chloride - 1.5%
    M paraben - 0.80%
    fragrance - 0.50%
    citric acid - 0.10%

    Is that 1.5% active cetrimonium chloride?
    Or as-supplied (usually 30% active CETAC)
    If it’s as supplied, then 0.45% active CETAC + 0.92% BTMS-50 is too little to keep all that dimethicone, stearic acid+glycol stearate and oils in solution.

    By the way why oils (grapeseed, argan and sweet almond)?
    Oils do nothing in rinse off conditioners (or shampoos).

    Get rid of glycerin and aloe gel in rinse off formulations as well.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    November 6, 2019 at 9:30 pm
    As others have mentioned the Xanthan gum is not compatible with the cationics in the formula.
    What is the composition of your Aloe Vera gel? It is possible that this also contains an anionic gelling agent.
    I would also suggest to try increasing the BTMS 50 to improve conditioning performance.
  • shuchi

    Member
    November 7, 2019 at 1:36 am

    @Gunther My supplier is a reseller. I asked for cetrimonium chloride and the label reads ‘cetrimide’. Since I have a fatal passion for cosmetic formulation, I am trying my hand at it. Otherwise I am a lawyer and a finance professional. :)  and so I am having to trust my supplier with what he gives.? Thanks so much for the knowledge you have shared. 

    The oils I read could balance off the impact of SLES on the hair. Same with aloe. Again aloe extract is what I get. It was by mistake I had mentioned gel. Thanks sgain.

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 7, 2019 at 1:39 am

    @ozgirl Point taken with thanks? as mentioned earlier, aloe extract is what I get. Thanks so much?

  • Gunther

    Member
    November 7, 2019 at 8:53 pm

    shuchi said:

    @Gunther My supplier is a reseller. I asked for cetrimonium chloride and the label reads ‘cetrimide’. Since I have a fatal passion for cosmetic formulation, I am trying my hand at it. Otherwise I am a lawyer and a finance professional. :)  and so I am having to trust my supplier with what he gives.? Thanks so much for the knowledge you have shared. 

    The oils I read could balance off the impact of SLES on the hair. Same with aloe. Again aloe extract is what I get. It was by mistake I had mentioned gel. Thanks sgain.

    Cetrimide contains Cetrimonium bromide.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetrimide
    Unlike chlorides, bromides can be quite toxic. That may (or may not) explain the dizziness you experienced.
    Ditch cetrimide and switch to cetrimonium chloride or some behentrimonium salt.

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 8, 2019 at 1:06 pm

    @Gunther Thanks a lot for the knowledge share :) . I will replace cetrimide with cetrimonium chloride or behentrimonium salt. 

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 11:30 am

    D/w 67.6%
    Glycerin 1.5%
    Aloe gel 1.5%
    Xanthum gum - q.s

    Stearic acid and glycol stearate 4%
    BTMS 50 -0.92%
    Grapeseed oil+ Argan oil+ Sweet almond oil - 2%

    Dimethicone - 1.5%
    Cetrimonium chloride - 1.5%
    M paraben - 0.80%
    fragrance - 0.50%
    citric acid - 0.10%

    Hi all! 

    If I converted the above sans xanthan gum, as suggested in the string above, what could I add to the formulation to make it non greasy? Your valuable inputs will be helpful. Thanks :)

  • EVchem

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 12:00 pm

    what viscosity dimethicone are you using? If it’s thick that may be making the hair feel greasy or heavy.

    Like others have mentioned, I’d bump up the BTMS and cut the oils down  (or out)

  • shuchi

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 12:29 pm

    @EVchem yes it is thick. I am anyways planning to incorporate almost all advices received but wanted an understanding on how it could be non greasy. Thanks  :)

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