Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Concentrated Liquid Cleanser

  • Concentrated Liquid Cleanser

    Posted by DD11 on August 14, 2023 at 3:43 pm

    I am developing a foaming cleanser formula and need some advice. The current percentages are as follows:
    Phase A:
    Aqua 80%
    Glycerin 10%
    Lactic acid 3%
    Cocamide DEA 2%
    Disodium EDTA 0.5%

    Phase B:
    Cocamidopropyl betaine 5%
    Sorbitol 3%
    Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 2%
    Alantoin 2%
    Sodium chloride 0.5%
    Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.2%
    Benzalkonium chloride 0.1%
    Methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone 0.1%

    Phase C: Perfume 2%
    Sodium Hydroxide for Ph adjustment
    PH: 6-7

    I would like to know if these percentages seem safe and logical for a foaming cleanser. Additionally, how can I modify the formula to make it concentrated, so it can be applied pure or diluted up to 80%? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please let me know if I can provide any other details. I’m looking forward to your expertise and guidance on creating an effective concentrated foaming cleanser.

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 3 months ago 5 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • gordof

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 12:44 am

    hi there

    about your formulation.

    First, you add 3 % lactic acid. in the end, you neutralize with sodium hydroxide to a ph of 6-7. Most of your lactic acid will no longer be in active acidic form by that ph.

    2 % allantoin seems to be a lot as far as I know only 0.5 % are soluble in cold water in comparison to the amount of water you are using higher concentrations will probably lead to recrystallization over time with your product even if it is soluble at 80 °C up to 4 %. Due to the fact that allantoin is a water-soluble ingredient it will be washed off either way you should not risk the Recrystallization problem for no effect and only a “claim ingredient” in a rinse-off product (price is something to consider as well).

    your conservation system seems a little strange to me phenoxyethanol Benzalkonium chloride Methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone are a weird combination (never seen anything like that) :). If you use Thiazolinone you can just stick with them I would guess more ingredients there can lead to more allergic reactions.

    EDTA is very high at 0.5 % normal concentration would be 0.05 %

    2% perfume is very high for a cleansing product that is used close to the nose. 0.5-0.8% I would say. Of course, that depends on the perfume you are using but if you need to use 2 % to get a pleasing scent iw would recommend speaking to your perfume supplier so that they do a rework of the product.

    General: Diluting a Cleansing product is possible but it is rather difficult to maintain the use over a range of 80 % dilution without risking either the low level not performing well enough or the high level being too aggressive. although if you dilute and this dilution should hold a few days conservation will be very problematic to maintain in a good way.

    I would always prefer to make 2 Formulations in that case one with a higher concentration and one with a lower to be safe.

    • DD11

      Member
      August 15, 2023 at 6:59 am

      I appreciate you taking the time to provide suggestions and corrections.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 5:58 am

    You are over preserved. EDTA at 0.1% of acid with either phenoxy 5000 ppm/EHG or isothiazolinone/benzoate 2500 ppm.

    No Benzalkonium chloride.

    I don’t know which isothiazolinone commerical product you’re using BUT do not exceed 7.5 ppm active of total MIT/CMIT

    • DD11

      Member
      August 15, 2023 at 6:57 am

      I thought this combination of preservatives would help a concentrated foaming cleanser be effective if diluted by 80%. Thank you for your help and time. If I understood correctly, this would be the formulation:

      Phase A:
      Water - 70%
      Glycerin - 5%
      Cocamide DEA - 2%
      Disodium EDTA - 0.1%

      Phase B:
      Cocamidopropyl Betaine - 8%
      Sorbitol - 4%
      Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate - 2%
      Allantoin - 0.5%
      Sodium Chloride - 0.5%

      Phase C:
      Fragrance - 0.5-0.8%
      Methylchloroisothiazolinone - 0.035%
      Methylisothiazolinone - 0.015%

      Total: 100%
      Can I still use lactic acid and sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH?

      • PhilGeis

        Member
        August 15, 2023 at 8:15 am

        Dilution to 80%??? This is a major problem - most tap water includes Pseudomonas aeruginosa AND in context of biofilm. Are you challenge testing with diluted product? At minimum you need to get in-use micro data as you’ve effectively engaged consumers and their water in your manufacturing.

        Be aware - a similar approach (point of use dilution - shampoo) was associated with serious outbreak of infection that led to one death at a cancer hospital. https://academic.oup.com/jid/article-abstract/158/3/655/2190564

        • DD11

          Member
          August 15, 2023 at 9:05 am

          I intended to dilute the solution using distilled water as the solvent. Which combination of preservatives would you suggest adding?

          • PhilGeis

            Member
            August 15, 2023 at 9:57 am

            This is for personal use?

            • DD11

              Member
              August 15, 2023 at 10:03 am

              no

            • PhilGeis

              Member
              August 15, 2023 at 10:49 am

              The concentrate is a manufacturing intermediate/premix to be diluted before packaging for retail?

  • ketchito

    Member
    August 15, 2023 at 6:19 am

    Also, Glycerin at 10% will only impair your foam. I wouldn’t use it at all to be honest, since it’ll just go down the drain in a cleanser.

    • DD11

      Member
      August 15, 2023 at 7:01 am

      What would you recommend for keeping skin hydrated and avoiding dryness?

      • evchem2

        Member
        August 15, 2023 at 7:26 am

        You could use a refatting agent like Glyceryl oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate, or Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

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