Cleansing Oils - Chemists Corner

Formulating

Cleansing Oils

Posted by Dtdang on January 2, 2020 at 2:35 pm

The goal is to identify natural oils that clean the clogged pores. My research
is leading to Castor oil. Anyone has experiences of castor oil, please share.
Thanks & have wonderful new year.

Cafe33 replied 5 years, 3 months ago 5 Members · 11 Replies
11 Replies

ngarayeva001

Member
January 2, 2020 at 3:26 pm

Nothing “cleans” clogged pores but physical extractions that are done mechanically or with the assistance of ultrasound or vacuum. Comedones are prevented or reduced by the use of salicylic acid and other ingredients that control sebum production such as retinoids, niacinamide, and maybe Zinc PCA. Oils are emollients and don’t have any other benefits.
Dtdang

Member
January 2, 2020 at 8:19 pm

Thanks @ngarayeva001. There are many wrong info (marketting?) on the web.
OldPerry

Professional Chemist / Formulator
January 2, 2020 at 11:55 pm

@Dtdang - Yes, much of what you read on the Internet about cosmetic products is misleading or downright wrong.
ngarayeva001

Member
January 3, 2020 at 9:13 am

Oils don’t do much in general. When I look at a new oil all I care about is the fatty acid profile (C=C bonds or no C=C bonds). And in most cases, I just end up using esters anyway. I tried many fancy oils when I started formulating. And with time I got rid of all of them and the only vegetable oils I own now are shea butter, jojoba oil (which is actually a wax) and almond oil because where I live it’s much cheaper than mineral oil (which is ridiculous) and I use it in products that I use quickly and in large amounts such as emulsified body scrubs.

Speaking of castor oil, the only reason to have it (that I see for myself) is to use it in lip products if you make them. It performs well in lip balms and lipsticks. I don’t know why is that (maybe viscosity), but I figure it out in an experimental way and then noticed that it’s used widely in the industry for this purpose.
Sponge

Member
January 4, 2020 at 3:50 am

ngarayeva001 said:

Oils don’t do much in general. When I look at a new oil all I care about is the fatty acid profile (C=C bonds or no C=C bonds). And in most cases, I just end up using esters anyway. I tried many fancy oils when I started formulating. And with time I got rid of all of them and the only vegetable oils I own now are shea butter, jojoba oil (which is actually a wax) and almond oil because where I live it’s much cheaper than mineral oil (which is ridiculous) and I use it in products that I use quickly and in large amounts such as emulsified body scrubs.

Speaking of castor oil, the only reason to have it (that I see for myself) is to use it in lip products if you make them. It performs well in lip balms and lipsticks. I don’t know why is that (maybe viscosity), but I figure it out in an experimental way and then noticed that it’s used widely in the industry for this purpose.

Castor oil is used in oil cleansing methods as well. The more oily your skin type, the more castor oil is used. @Dtdang
Dtdang

Member
January 4, 2020 at 11:02 pm

My friend used my cream without Castor oil . Her face was developed pimples. But using the cream with castor oil, her face doesn’t have pimples. Is castor oil having high % (90%) of ricinoleic acid that helps ?
OldPerry

Professional Chemist / Formulator
January 4, 2020 at 11:57 pm

Castor oil isn’t a proven treatment for acne. But maybe it works for your friend.
Just remember when it comes to any treatment three things can happen.

1. A condition gets better
2. A condition gets worse
3. A condition doesn’t change

These three things are also what can happen with no treatment. Only through controlled testing can you figure out whether something actually works or not.
ngarayeva001

Member
January 5, 2020 at 1:00 pm

Your friend developed pimples.. question number 1, how that product was preserved. Question number 2, what else was in the formula?
Dtdang

Member
January 5, 2020 at 7:29 pm

Only castor oil 0.5%, the rest is the same.
I added 0.5% of castor oil bc ricinoleic acid
Dtdang

Member
January 5, 2020 at 7:30 pm

She has oily
Cafe33

Member
January 6, 2020 at 1:10 am

0.5% Castor oil doesn’t sound like much.

The oils which come to mind for oily/acneic skin are Squalane and Jojoba Oil.

I have been experimenting with the following formulation:

Squalane 45%
Almond Oil (qs to 100%)
Jojoba Oil 10%
Castor Oil 5%
Tocopherol Acetate 0.8%
Essential Oil Blend 0.2%

I am ordering a small amount of Racemic Bisabolol from BASF but not sure how to incorporate it yet. I might also consider replacing some of the Squalane with CCT. So far the testers enjoy how the oil sinks in the skin very quickly.

Some oils which are listed as non comedogenic on the internet blog type websites are

Argan Oil
Black Current Seed Oil
Blueberry Seed Oil
Babassu Oil
Pomegranate Oil
Rosehip Oil

I might add a few of these oils as claim ingredients.