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Citric Acid causing emulsion to break up?
I’m formulating a body butter with a brand new (to me) emulsifier, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, and am experiencing something i’ve never seen before. Everything looks amazing, very smooth and glossy and perfect, up until I add the first drop of citric acid at the end, at which point the emulsion appears to be breaking up. With continued mixing it goes back to looking normal but then after checking on it in a couple days it is not as smooth and glossy as it was and i’m afraid it is becoming unstable. I suspect it is this new emulsifier because it is the only ingredient in this formula that i am using for the very first time.
I am using 23% oils plus my emulsifiers which are:
3% Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
0.5% Sepimax Zen
0.5% Sepinov EMT 10
1.5% Cetyl
1.5% CetearylOther ingredients in the formula are are:
TSGD
Glycerin
Propanediol
Tocopherol
Hyaluronic Acid
Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
EthylhexylglcyerinThe above are all used at pretty standard amounts, nothing crazy. I lowered ph from 7.5 to 5.6 but the weirdness started with just a single drop of citric.
Any idea why citric acid would be causing issues here? Do i need to use another acid? Or another emulsifier?
Thanks for any input.
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4 Replies
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Why are you adjusting at the end…other that a final look/tweak? What happened to adjust as you go, which eliminates the ’emulsifier shock’?
Once your water phase is complete….get it close (you may not need further adjustment…but double check).
You can always try lactic….but shocking your emulsion at the end…is never good.
You might consider a little anionic…like GSC or SSG to strengthen the emulsion. I have been working on one recently…and it is touch as nails… PG-6-DS / sucrose esters-stearate / GMS and SSG.
You can also try watering down your acid….where you use twice as much…but not as shocking of an entry. But….I suspect you should build a stronger emulsion.
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Graillotion said:Why are you adjusting at the end…other that a final look/tweak?Because I am an amateur and didn’t think to do it any other way!
From now on I will definitely stop waiting until the end to adjust my ph. Thanks for the tip.
Do you think I could just add a little more EMT 10 instead of GSC or SSG? I don’t believe I have those on hand right now.
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Berry_8 said:Graillotion said:Why are you adjusting at the end…other that a final look/tweak?
Do you think I could just add a little more EMT 10 instead of GSC or SSG? I don’t believe I have those on hand right now.
No.
Even though considered anionic….not the same effect. Same with the anionic gums.
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Do you also make cleansing Products?
What anionic surfactants do you use?
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