Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohols versus Behenyl Alcohol

Hair

Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohols versus Behenyl Alcohol

Posted by vidakaramooz on February 23, 2015 at 10:30 pm

Hello all,

For hair conditioning formulas, is there a fatty alcohol that works better than others? Do you think Behenyl Alcohol is a better fatty alcohol for hair conditioners than Cetyl or Stearyl Alcohols?

I have not worked with Behenyl Alcohol yet so I wanted to get your perspective on that.

Thank you,

Vida

David replied 9 years, 8 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

OldPerry

Member
February 24, 2015 at 1:58 am

The main difference would be in your product stability. Cetyl has a lower melting point so it can melt at higher temperatures. Stearyl Alcohol has a slightly higher melting point and Behenyl Alcohol even higher still. But most conditioner formulas use a blend of Cetyl and Stearyl Aclohol. Behenyl alcohol is likely more expensive and doesn’t provide much additional benefit.
vidakaramooz

Member
February 24, 2015 at 9:46 pm

Dear Perry.

I wonder why some formulas include all 3 fatty alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Cetearyl Alcohol together? If Cetearyl Alcohol is a combination of both Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohols, why not just using Cetearyl Alcohol by itself (higher amount)? The Giovanni conditioner ingredient list that I sent to you in my Hair Conditioner Formula question is a good example of that.

Thank you,

Vida
David

Member
February 24, 2015 at 10:03 pm

2 reasons

1. larger companieis use software to calculate INCI and it is not that smart yet

2. cetearyl means 50/50 Cetyl /Stearyl if that is not your ratio you should declare them separately
vidakaramooz

Member
February 25, 2015 at 3:03 am

Thank you David.

Are there any significant conditioning (skin and hair) property differences between Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol?

This would help me to decide which one of the 3 fatly acids to use and at what ratio?

Thank you,

Vida
OldPerry

Member
February 25, 2015 at 2:15 pm

I doubt anyone could tell much difference in terms of skin / hair conditioning between Cetyl, Stearyl or Cetearyl
CosChemFan

Member
February 25, 2015 at 7:39 pm

Hi everyone!

I’m no professional or mentor like the great @Perry

Regards,

CosChemFan
vidakaramooz

Member
February 26, 2015 at 5:59 pm

Thank you all.

Very informative comments. I appreciate it very much.

Blessings,

Vida
Iaskedbetter

Member
February 26, 2015 at 7:45 pm

I do not believe “Cetearyl Alcohol” is specifically a 50/50 ratio of cetyl and stearyl. It is supplied as blends of other ratios (30/70 for instance).
galina

Member
February 27, 2015 at 4:49 am

For a hair conditioner pure Behenyl Alcohol is too expensive. Best is a commercial blend of Cetearyl Alcohol (30% - Cetyl, 70% Stearyl). Behenyl quats eg. Incroquat Behenyl TMS from Croda give nice conditioning effect without build up.
David

Member
February 27, 2015 at 2:32 pm

Iaskedbetter that is true, there are no specific limits for calling it cetearyl alcohol. Even worse is that the mixture stearic/palmitic acid is usually sold under stearic acid.