Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Ceteareth-20 in a BTMS based system with glyoxylic acid

  • Ceteareth-20 in a BTMS based system with glyoxylic acid

    Posted by Cafe33 on October 10, 2025 at 4:14 pm

    I am manufacturing professional chemical hair straighteners using glyoxilic acid in 10% to sub 10% levels with pH 1.6 to 2.5 using BTMS-25. I also use ceteareth 20. The formulas also include Cyclopentasiloxane as the only silicone. IPM and CCT are also present.

    I ran a couple of test batches without Ceteareth-20 and the emulsion turned out noticeably more liquid and slightly grainy, less cohesive overall. When I include a small amount of Ceteareth 20, it becomes thicker and smoother.

    I want to test how a more fluid version of the product will effect the application on hair as it spreads more easily.

    The only downside is that with ceteareth-20, the product no longer flows properly through my piston-filling machine. Viscosity is too high or elasticity too strong, and it clogs or pulses unevenly.

    So my questions are:

  • 1. Is Ceteareth-20 actually stabilizing the emulsion, or is it just altering rheology and sensory feel?

  • 2. Has anyone else experienced processing issues (pumping or filling difficulties) related to Ceteareth-20 ?

  • 3. Any insights on how it behaves during heat-activated keratin type treatments would also be really helpful.

  • I worry about raising the BTMS-25 input since the cationic load might interfere with the acid’s penetration and performance.

    • This discussion was modified 6 hours, 59 minutes ago by  Cafe33.
Cafe33 replied 7 hours, 1 minute ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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