• General

  Cationic Hair Conditioning Bar - hardness and texture issues

  Posted by Anca_Formulator on July 31, 2024 at 5:54 pm

  Hi,

  I’ve made this formula many times and tweaked both the method and hardening ingredients, but no matter what I do, I can’t seem to get a truly hard bar. Also, it leaves a slightly greasy sheen on my hands. I can wipe them, but it still feels a bit like silicone. Works beautifully on the hair though! Here is the formula:

  Heated Phase A:

  1. BTMS 50 - 62.5%
  2. Cetyl Alcohol - 5.3%
  3. Stearic Acid - 6%
  4. Cocoa Butter - 11.4%
  5. Shea Butter - 3.1%
  6. Neossance Hemisqualane - 2%
  7. Olive Squalane - 2%

  Cool Down Phase B:

  1. Hydrolyzed Oat Protein - 1.7%
  2. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein (preserved with Leucidal) - 3%
  3. Panthenol - 2%
  4. Essential Oil - 0.5%
  5. Liquid Germall Plus - 0.5%

  Method:

  1. Heat ingredients 1-5 to 150-160°F until fully melted.
  2. Add 6 and 7, and blend thoroughly.
  3. Make a slurry out of 8-10 and incorporate well with a stick blender.
  4. Continue mixing intermittently as the mixture cools until a creamy, buttery consistency is achieved.
  5. Add EO and Germall Plus Liquid at around 135°F (I can’t add it below that because the mix gets too hard to pour).

  I’ve tried cooling it rapidly in the freezer, but it doesn’t get harder than cooling at room temperature. Also, regardless of the cooling method, the texture on top as it cools is brain-like and wavy. After 24 hours, I have to hit it quickly with a heat gun to smooth it out a bit.

  How can I make the bar harder (but not draggy), and get rid of the ‘greasy sheen.’?

  Thanks!

  Anca_Formulator replied 4 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
• 3 Replies

• 

  Perry44

  Administrator

  August 2, 2024 at 10:18 am

  To make it harder you would need to reduce the levels of Cocoa Butter and Shea butter. And increase the levels of the fatty acids. Of course, that might reduce the effectiveness on hair but that is the trade off you face. Now, if you incorporated a silicone…

  • 

    Anca_Formulator

    Member

    August 17, 2024 at 12:20 pm

    Thank you! I’ve been tweaking it the way you suggested and also added a touch of Candellia Wax. It’s definyitely harder, now trying to find the sweet spot between creaminess and hardness.

• 

  Elliot

  Member

  August 2, 2024 at 1:35 pm

  If you’ve got it, you could try trading BTMS25 for the -50.

Log In to Reply