Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Carboxylic acid binding to keratin

  • Carboxylic acid binding to keratin

    Posted by zetein on February 23, 2021 at 5:38 am
    Does the title really happen?
    I came across and old patent saying acyl glutamate monosalt surfactant would cause slimy after-feel on skin due to only one of the carboxylic acid being ionized, and the other free carboxylic acid group would bind to keratin. It was published around when acyl glutamate was first commercialized.
    And it instantly reminds me of some allege about acyl lactyl lactic acid or its salt sold as hair-conditioning agent. Is this the same theory? Given lactic acid is quite weak an acid and in usual formulation it would mostly be in its free acid form.
    On wikipedia page “Lactylate”, this article below was cited, but unfortuantely I couldn’t find the full article.
    Murphy, L.J. (1979). “Sorption of Acyl Lactylates by Hair and Skin as Documented by Radio Tracer Studies”. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 94 (3): 43–47.

    chemicalmatt replied 3 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 26, 2021 at 4:11 pm

    I think you answered your own question there: yes. I’ll add here that lactylates do bind to keratin and the main effect is hydration from their humectancy, not true “hair conditioning”, which is better served with alkyl quats.

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