Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Can this label be correct?

  • Can this label be correct?

    Posted by DHP on September 14, 2024 at 5:47 pm

    I am a licensed esthetician. I purchased several “professional” treatment products from a newer brand to try.

    The following ingredient list comes from a product touted as a resurfacing solution. You apply the liquid-gel product to clean skin (in a thick layer), allow to dry, then remove with dry fingertips. The removal is similar to gommage or peeling gels, but the texture is much nicer, no gummy feeling left behind and doesn’t get stuck to facial hair like many peeling gels and gommage products.

    However, the ingredient lists leaves me suspicious. Do these ingredients read like they are in correct order, and does this read like a film forming gel that would roll off with manual removal? I’m a bit confused by the different salt labels as well.

    Ethyl alcohol

    Ethyl acetate liquid

    Lipoic (thiotic) acid powder

    Sterile water

    Benzyl alcohol liquid

    Glycerin liquid

    Menthol crystals

    Hyaluronic acid

    Sodium salt powder

    Aloe Vera juice liquid

    Celtic salt powder

    Sodium carbonate powder

    Potassium bicarbonate powder

    Cucumber

    DHP replied 2 months ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Trytryagain

    Member
    September 15, 2024 at 3:29 pm

    Is this the way the label reads, verbatim? If yes, then I would be suspicious of this brand since they aren’t even using proper inci names, for one. There are multiple issues with this label.

    Does this peel off clean, like the sodium alginate masks? I’m curious if the “sodium salt powder” should be sodium alginate. Sodium alginate paired with potassium bicarbonate (or other things like calcium carbonate) are commonly used as the gelling agents in the peel off masks.

    Hyaluronic acid gels water but not enough to get that clean peel off like the sodium alginate does.

    • DHP

      Member
      September 17, 2024 at 1:56 pm

      Yes, it is exactly the way the label reads, see photo.

      When I purchased this product, I was just given highlights of ingredients, could not see the actual full bottle with label. I was quite surprised when the label read this way.

      It is not like an alginate mask.

      The texture in bottle is that of a thick slime. You dispense into a dish, apply with fan brush, allow to dry, then remove with fingertips in a rubbing motion. The product gums up, and comes off in little sticky balls (supposedly taking dead skin with it but obviously it’s mostly just the product coming off). It is very similar to these carbomer based peeling gels, but removes with less sticking to facial hair.

      It’s frustrating because the skin does actually feel very nice after this, but I have zero willingness to continue to use something that has an inaccurate label. Really makes me wonder! This is marketed as a professional only brand!

  • evchem2

    Member
    September 16, 2024 at 2:46 pm

    Definitely agree with trytryagain, are you based in the US? If the listing looks as you wrote it I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the product. Ethyl acetate is normally used in nail polishes and as a component of fragrance/flavor mixes. I’ve never seen it listed in a product for the face, let alone as the second most predominant ingredient!

    • DHP

      Member
      September 17, 2024 at 1:59 pm

      I was definitely surprised when I began studying the label. I assumed this was a quality product due to the branding and online demos and hype surrounding this treatment. I used if several times before studying the label and then was rather shocked. And yes 100% US, I’m surprised I’ve not seen anyone else bring this up, but then - they do require approval to any Facebook posts on their brand group oage.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    September 16, 2024 at 5:06 pm

    This is not a correct INCI ingredient listing. Words like powder, liquid and crystals are not used in ingredient list.

    What is cucumber? Did they just add an entire cucumber 😮

    Does it smell like nail polish remover? If the ethyl acetate was that high in the ingredients it would have a very strong odor.

    I would not use this product. It is not a “professional” product.

    • DHP

      Member
      September 17, 2024 at 2:02 pm

      Thanks for verifying what I thought. And right on about the cucumber - very odd to randomly end with solely “cucumber”! It doesn’t smell heavily of alcohol OR nail polish remover which is what makes me wonder even about the order of ingredients. Even if one of those was used to dissolve the lipoic acid, I’d not think it’d be in a higher concentration than water. Not even sure “Sterile water” is an appropriate label term? It really has more of a menthol scent with a slight note of undetermined chemical. If you were to directly smell the product, it’d not take your breath away but definitely opens the nasal passages and has a cooling feel on the skin.

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