Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Can the HLB system or anything else suggest how much emulsifier to use?

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  • Can the HLB system or anything else suggest how much emulsifier to use?

    Posted by Gunther on December 19, 2019 at 6:06 pm

    As far as I know, the HLB system only suggests which emulsifiers or blends to use to match the oil phase composition.

    How can you get a rough guidance on how much emulsifier/blend to use, besides trial and error experimentation?

    The only thing I found was this:

    Now, make seven test emulsions, using one of the above emulsifier samples in each. Use an excess of emulsifier (say 10-20% of the weight of your oil phase), and dissolve or intimately disperse the emulsifier into the oil phase, melting ingredients together if necessary.
    http://www.firp.ula.ve/archivos/historicos/76_Book_HLB_ICI.pdf

    So 110-120% of the oil phase weight is a good start?

    Bill_Toge replied 5 years ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 7:14 pm

    Hi @Gunther, I read this article a long time ago when just started formulating: https://makingskincare.com/how-to-formulate-like-a-pro/

    “approximately 25% of the total of the oil-soluble ingredients, subject to a minimum of 3% and a maximum of 7%”

    this approach never failed me in o/w emulsion. I wish it was as simple with w/o.

  • Sponge

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 9:28 pm

    Check manufacturers’ suggestions of how much of a given emulsifier is recommended. Often they will give a range with specifications depending on the type of product you’re making. 

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 11:22 pm

    in a word, no; you have to find out what level is best for your desired application by experiment or past experience

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