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C13-15 Alkane …. comparison amongst various vendors with Hemisqualane.
I am that nut….that when he finds an ingredient…before pulling the trigger, tries various iterations (of the same thing) from different mfgs.
Over the years I have tested things like CCT in this manner which went from hideously greasy to elegant and lite…based on various vendor offerings. Not unexpected.
The unexpected one…was when I did that with C12-15 AB…. one of @chemicalmatt favorites. Could absolutely not believe the difference between the various sources. Not expected from a synthetic ingredient, one of Perry’s selling points on synthetics.
I use C13-15 Alkane in many formulas and have always purchased the version labeled/branded ‘Hemisqualane’. Just wondering if anyone has compared the branded version with what I assume is Chinese version of C13-15 Alkane….and noted a difference…..at all? I have an opportunity to buy some on the cheap…. but don’t won’t to pull the trigger if it will alter the haptics. (They do not offer any small kine trial size… but am more than willing to buy the larger amounts…if I knew it was essentially identical.)
Aloha.
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3 Replies
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I have received a response from the re-packer….and yes I was floored by the fact that someone with competance replied…this has NEVER happened before! (At repacker level)
Here is the response….and YES…there is a diffrence in their two offerings (same INCI). I would still like to hear your real world results…as well. Just dropping the response…so others can learn as well:
Vendor response:
” Thank you for reaching out! The two ingredients are very similar but do have some distinct differences. They are derived from different sources and have different chemical structures. In terms of how the differ in a formula:
Hemisqualane: Dry, satin/matte finish – best use a as a silicone alternative and when you want a lighter weight and non-greasy finish.
C13-15Alkane: Slightly dewy/glossy finish, can feel heavier than Hemisqualane – best used for water-resistant formulas and products meant for longer wear.”I am acutely aware…that same INCI means very little in cosmetics (hence the original question) ….as attached image will demonstrate. 😉
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by
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Hey @escape road, I totally feel you on the ingredient testing obsession — that “before I commit, I must try all versions” mindset is something only true formulation nerds get. I’ve also noticed wild inconsistencies in what should be “identical” synthetics.
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So, the material has 2 CAS numbers associated. One has a petroleum origin while the other has a vegetable origin. Now, since neither start with an exact chain lenght distribution (which happens with pure synthetics), what you have is a mixture (that’s why it’s C13-15…they can actually have also C12, C11, C16, etc., but C13-15 are most abundant). What I mean with all this yada-yada is that one supplier can have a material with more C12 or C13 while other have more C15 or C16. That’s the trade-off for not using completely synthetics 😄
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