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C 12-15 AB vs C 12-15 Alkyl Lactate … compare please.
Today’s learning session brought C 12-15 Alkyl Lactate into my line of sight. I am quite familiar with C 12-15 AB…in fact have some dishes of it with Ascorbyl Palmitate in them for observation as we speak …. Yes…some Swiss chemist always has me up to something!
So, my question is….in regards to the category of emollients. Has someone that has worked with both….what can you describe? Is this something I need on my bench? Is this the fish that got away?
Below is a screenshot from a video I was watching…and it has the two in very different categories. I would love to hear some of you wax eloquent on the topic.
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10 Replies
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I don’t know about these ingredients but is this video on youtube?
Cab you share the link? -
Judging from the chemical structure, imo alkyl lactate would fall into the low spreading emollient (heavier feels) and alkyl benzoate would be in the medium/high spreading (lighter feels)
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Abdullah said:I don’t know about these ingredients but is this video on youtube?
Cab you share the link?Discord Webinar Replay: Analyzing Lotions & Creams - YouTube
Note: On a chart like that….those are arbitrary opinions.
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As many CC readers know, my affinity for C12-15 alkyl benzoate has few bounds (Me: “What CAN’T Finsolv TN do, I ask?”). However, this is one where I depart. Having just worked with Myristyl (C14) Lactate for the first time in a skin-care project, I can’t say enough about the unique sensorial attributes. Slippery but not oily; sorta’ “squeaky” but not “filmy” if that makes sense? Why did it take me so many years to discover this gem? Menthyl lactate is the only other lactyl ester I’ve used before, only as a cooling agent. This ester is a really nice find.
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chemicalmatt said:As many CC readers know, my affinity for C12-15 alkyl benzoate has few bounds (Me: “What CAN’T Finsolv TN do, I ask?”). However, this is one where I depart. Having just worked with Myristyl (C14) Lactate for the first time in a skin-care project, I can’t say enough about the unique sensorial attributes. Slippery but not oily; sorta’ “squeaky” but not “filmy” if that makes sense? Why did it take me so many years to discover this gem? Menthyl lactate is the only other lactyl ester I’ve used before, only as a cooling agent. This ester is a really nice find.
Thank you. Sounds like your passion for C12-15 AB is only out shown by my passion for TEC!
(BTW…that body butter as 3% TEC as part of the emollient package.)I have not worked with C14….but will be on the hunt for it. I do use Myristyl Myristate (I know…not the same thing) in everything. Another of my favorite ingredients.
While I have you on the line….. The other day Jane mentioned Caprylyl Methicone in an unrelated comment. Do you have an opinion of that ingredient, @chemicalmatt ?
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Graillotion said:Abdullah said:I don’t know about these ingredients but is this video on youtube?
Cab you share the link?Discord Webinar Replay: Analyzing Lotions & Creams - YouTube
Note: On a chart like that….those are arbitrary opinions.
Thanks
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Alkyl benzoate is that one ingredient I always have in stock. As multi purpose as it gets. Helps disperse EOs in silicones, compatible with polysorbate 80 in oil cleansers, light yet not drying.
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C12-15 alkyl benzoate Is my favorite emollient. I recently did a comparison between 5-6 different ones (thanks @Graillotion for the recommendations) and that was the clear winner. Haven’t tried alkyl lactate though.
butylene glycol was my least favorite, which surprised me because it’s in almost everything, and in seemingly high amounts.
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@GeorgeBenson Butylene glycol is a small water soluble molecule, so (as you experienced) it can’t compete with emollient esters which have higher molecular weight and are more hydrophobic.
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GeorgeBenson said:
butylene glycol was my least favorite, which surprised me because it’s in almost everything, and in seemingly high amounts.
You know….it might depend on the source of BG. I was using some run of the mill stuff….quite happily…then decided to buy one that was touted as ‘natural’ or natural feedstock….I forget….slept since then…. And it was simply HIDEOUS!
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