• Formulating

  BTMS-50 to silicones ratio?

  Posted by Gunther on July 10, 2018 at 7:42 pm

  How much silicones can BTMS-50 emulsify?

  I’ve tried a 1:1 ratio (equal amounts of BTMS-50 and dimethicone) and it held fine.
  Some say it works fine at a 1:2 ratio (twice as much silicones as BTMS-50), especially if some of them are cyclomethicones.

  Sorry if this has been asked before. Can’t seem to find a proper answer anywhere, not even in the Croda website. 

  Gunther replied 6 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
• 6 Replies

• 

  Gunther

  Member

  July 14, 2018 at 12:40 am

  This Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 4 formula uses almost 3x silicone as BTMS.
  But it’s just BTMS, not BTMS-50 with butylene glycol.

  

• 

  Gunther

  Member

  July 27, 2018 at 7:32 pm

  A Croda sample fomulation emulsified 50% dimethicone with just 3% BTMS-50

  High silicone cream
  SC-326

  Part A
  Deionized water 43.0%

  Part B
  Dimethicone 200cs 50.0%
  Cetearyl alcohol 3.0%

  Part C
  Germaben 1.0%

  I tried
  60 volume% deionized water
  2 wt% BTMS-50
  heat to 75C and stir
  2 wt% dimethicone 350
  stir to emulsify
  38 vol% cyclomethicone D5
  (I didn’t use preservatives in this preliminary test)

  and it seems to hold without separating, being thin enough for a spray pump.
  It feel way better than all water formulation, and hair dries quickly.

  I’ll see if it still works with just 1.5% BTMS to make it thinner, as it feels borderline thick for a pump spray, with some large droplets, not always a fine mist.

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  July 30, 2018 at 9:04 pm

  Gunther: I am skeptical about that 50% DM200 holding up for very long, with just 1.5% BTMC at work, I don’t care what Croda states. In your formula, you used volatile silicone, I see.  That will evaporate once on the hair - you OK with that? Also, try using the smaller DMC polymer (200) rather than 350 and your spray pattern should improve a bit.

• 

  Gunther

  Member

  July 31, 2018 at 2:17 am

  Thanks @chemicalmatt I always keep on looking for the Like button when reading your posts.

  I will keep on looking for dimethicone 200.

  Yes, I prefer volatile silicones as they evaporate quicker than water.

  Do you know if cyclomethicone can be used to dissolve anything other than silicones? i.e. hair holding polymers or cationic conditioners?
  All my experiments seem to fail.

• 

  Chemist5000

  Member

  July 31, 2018 at 3:58 pm

  May I ask what is the purpose for using a cationic emulsifier over a non-ionic/anionic emulsifier?

  If I wanted to use a thickening agent I would also have to use a cationic agent like a guar gum and not something like xanthan gum?

• 

  Gunther

  Member

  August 1, 2018 at 12:16 am

  The purpose was to replace as much water for cyclomethicone as possible
  in order to get hair to dry faster.

  BTMS was also used as a detangler/conditioner.

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