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Brainstorm: acne formulation for teenage
Happy thanksgiving !
i am interesting on developing acne cream for teenage girls and boys.
any suggestions for acne ingredients? Active acne ingredients? Herbs or botanical ingredients?
Thanks for all inputs. I hope everyone has wonderful thanksgiving with your love ones -
15 Replies
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Happy Thanksgiving @Dtdang.
Salicylic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide, and Retinol. However, they all are serious ingredients and require a lot of experience. The product with those ingredients can be classified as OTC drug.
Botanicals do not do anything. Tea tree oil is somewhat effective, but it’s cytotoxic. Which means it kills all cells, not only bacteria causing acne.
If you really want to try, make a light lotion with salicylic acid and a little of niacinamide. Read LOI of Effaclar products by La Roche Posay for some inspiration.
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@ngarayeva001
Could you please tell more about tea tree oil being cytotoxic?
Sulphur can work right? -
@Amira, I started this discussion some time :
Give it a read. There is a link to a research paper shared by Perry. It’s long but worth reading. Short summary: all essential oils are either phototoxic (for example orange, lemon) or cytotoxic (they talk about tea tree as an example) or both. They might have some skin (and overall health benefits) but the side effects make it isn’t worth it.
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Tretinoin wins hands down
Hydroquinone works too, but check its regulations in your country. -
It depends on your jurisdiction:
In the US, the approved Actives for acne OTC topicals are: Salicylic Acid, Resorcinol, Sulfur and Benzoyl Peroxide and it is regulated as an OTC drug product.
Retinol would put you in the acne drug category in the US.
If you are formulating for a non-US market, check your in-country regulations.
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@ngarayeva001 thank you, i will
I appreciate it -
Sure. (This does not apply to the US)
Kill the bacteria: Thyme extract; monolaurin; Tea Tree oil
Stop the inflammation: aloe vera > 20% or more; Calendula extract.
Wound healing: Tepezcohuite extract
Improve the skin, pseudo estrogenic effect: licorice acid -
Thanks everyone who inputs into my post. Happy thanksgiving.
@Belassi, aloe Vera juice or gel. What are they different?
Thanks -
Azelaic acid. Canadian willowherb extract.
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@Dtdang, I personally don’t like aloe, but if you want to use it, get a concentrated powder instead. I have x200 concentration. It means, 0.5 gr in water gives you 100% aloe. You probably don’t want to add more than 0.1gr which would make your product 20% aloe vera. I don’t like it because it’s an electrolyte and decreases viscosity of polymers. Regarding tea tree oil, again I would rather try to so something with salicylic acid insted. It works, it’s cheap, easy to get in most places, causes less irritation than tea tree (if formulated right).
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@Belassi I found a polymer that tolerates aloe relatively well. I remember that you mentioned you prefer conventional rheology modifiers fot lotions but maybe the information is useful for you. ViscOptima SE by Croda. Based on Sodium Polyacrylate. INCI Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20. I actually found it on makingcosmetics under another brand name. This rheology modifier tolerates aloe and MAP but Sodium PCA destroys it.
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Thanks, but … it’s Croda! Here in Mexico Croda are impossible. Huge MOQ, no customer care.
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further to @MarkBroussard‘s point, in Europe benzoyl peroxide is restricted to medicines, and resorcinol is restricted to hair dyesencapsulated retinol is a proven, effective, safe and chemically stable way to fight acne; if you can source a water-soluble encapsulated form, even better -
I am using oil-soluble retinol liposomes for antiaging effect. Is there a reason why encapsulated retinol should it be water-soluble (I actually thought that even encapsulated version should be oil-soluble as vitamin A is oil-soluble)?
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Lots of ideas in the Wikipedia article
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acne#Management
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