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Best emulsifiers combinaison
I have many emulsifiers and i want to make the best combinaison for getting best texture (viscosity, sensoriel feeling) and stability for o/w emulsion :
So i have :
Polysorbate 20 , peg 40 hydrogenated castor oil, cetearteh 3 ,steareth 2 , Steareth 20 ,ceteareth 20, peg 7 glyceryl cocoate, peg 150 Distearate , gms se, cetearteh 25
*I tried cetearteh 20 with cetearyl alcohol as recommended combinaison found in forum but the résultat was bad low viscosity with high soaping effect
* I tried gms se with steareth 20 i got better texture but viscosity still low
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25 Replies
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What much viscosity do you what and have you got?
What combinations and at what percentage have you used?
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Not really pricise value just thick cream and the level of emulsifiers Will be better lower then seven with 5% and can be more of cetearyl alcohol .
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With these emulsifiers Try 3% ceteareth 20+ 40% cetearyl alcohol or 2% ceteareth 20 + 2.5% cetearyl alcohol.
I recommend other types of emulsifiers.
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I tried untill 4% cetearteh 20 with 6% Cetearyl alcohol and didn’t get desired viscosity plus at that level of cetearteh 20 soaping effect is huge
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Maybe there is problem with your raw materials or production method because those amount should give high enough viscosity.
Try adding some gums
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Actually it is quite thick but soaping effect is solo bad just compairing with the same level of sabowax ae it is thin
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It is too much emulsifier. That is why it soaps. As graillotion mention, you should increase viscosity by adding polymers that increase stability too.
Try this combination, it will have less soaping.
Cetearyl alcohol 1.5%
GMS 3.6%
cetearteh 20 2.2%
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Thanks a lot for that i Will make a try May i Will increase cetearyl alcohol.
Just i aim to make something near to Sabowax ae it needs 5% with some cetearyl alcohol to get thick and lovely texture without need of other texture agent .
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I suggest if you increased one of them, increase all others too.
I also suggest you make a sample with good old sodium Lauryl sulfate. I bet you would love it.
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thanks a lot for your input.
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I am at a complete loss. Why are you asking your emulsifier to bring the viscosity? I couldn’t imagine a scenario I would not appreciate more. Emulsifiers generally don’t feel that nice. They have ONE JOB…. to emulsify the phases. Let them do their job. You use only the amount it takes to accomplish a stable emulsion. What if you want a thin emulsion…and your emulsifier brough viscosity?
This is why the 165 is sooooooooooo appreciated globally….. it allows an incredible range of viscosity; you simply thicken to taste. You thicken with things that feel nice….NOT emulsifiers. 🤮
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The best emulsifier combo is…. the one that holds things together for longer than the shelf-life of the product. It is also one that gives you the freedom to create any viscosity your project calls for. I use 165 to make thin lotions….or the thickest of creams….. because it holds thing together. The viscosity…..and how that is achieved….is a completely separate topic.
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Emulsifiers can be also thickner so my question about that . If i have acess to neowax 165 or other i Will not work and ask to replace them. Unfortuently we are surfering from the absence of auto Emulsifiers for a long time now this push to do that…
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What are the things that thicken with nice feel ?
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It seems like you might be trying to pair coemulsifiers together rather than a single emulsifier with a co emulsifier and thickener for stability. I love BTMS for everything, cetyl alcohol as a secondary coemulsifier and a gum to stabilize.
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BTMS is almost for hair care not skin care. If it is fine for skin which level suggest for BTMS and cetearyl alcohol?
And which type of BTMS are you using 25%?
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A lot of people use BTMS for just hair care but try it for skin care. Its a game changer. The very mild slip and incredible stability is so effective that I’ve almost exclusively switched. Its smells awful and its expensive so I still use plant based emlsuifiers like e wax. This is also because I have little space and not enough resources to experiment with a lot of different emulsifiers. I used btms 25. For a hobbyist, its good enough but I aspire to take the cosmetic chemistry class and learn more about professional formulating. Also my skin is so sensitive when I find something that works, I stick to it.
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BTMS is strong so I think in one lotion I use 2-3% and anywhere from 2-6% cetyl depending on how thick it is and the stability. Some lotions I’ve created are so unstable I nearly gave up and used a generic formula online. You usually need x amount of BTMS per lipid content so I try to keep that in mind but experiment with the percentage a little. My homemade creations aren’t as stable as professional formulas but with my sensitive skin, I do what I can.
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Thanks a lot for sharing and I can help you about stability problem just as a quick help 3% of BTMS 25 is just 0.75% emulsfier so alone in this level is it logic to haven’t stable emulsion.
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Don’t add extra fatty alcohol to it and yes it would be stable
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@Abdullah can you explain more please ?
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If you are using BTMS 25, just use it the way it is. If you want more viscosity then increase BTMS quantity.
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Thanks a lot, so the good ratio (BTMS/Cetearyl alcohol) is ( 1:3)
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Yes
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