Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Baby Cream & Baby lotion formulation with Arlacel 2121

  • Baby Cream & Baby lotion formulation with Arlacel 2121

    Posted by Priya on May 21, 2014 at 8:50 am

    Hello Friends,
    I am using Arlacel 2121 (Sorbiton stearate & sucrose cocoate) as emulsifier in my formulation but it dosent have proper penetration, that meant finish product take time to absorb through skin. what should I do to solve this query.

    Priya replied 10 years, 5 months ago 6 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • Chemist77

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 9:47 am

    Are you talking about ‘rub-in’ time or really the penetration into the skin??????? Because these 2 terms are entirely different.

  • ChemWizard

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 9:48 am

    Priya, you might need to share more information on other ingredients in the formula..for eg. what kind of Oils and what kind of thickener you are using. You can either use some ceteareth-20 or steareth-20 or make changes in oil ratio. You can even use 1000cst dimethicone  or use a faster absorbing oil

  • Priya

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 10:21 am

    milliachemist I am talking about my products absorption & moisturization with silky satiny feel, that i missing in my formulation.

    about the ing. yes,, those are cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearic acid, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, seasam oil, almond oil, vitamin E, jojoba oil & dimethicone with 200 cst.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 10:58 am

    Take the cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl (cetearyl) alcohol, and stearic acid out.

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 1:10 pm

    I agree with Bob but you might find that your lotion is much thinner with those ingredients removed so do add a thickener/co stabiliser such as behenyl alcohol and also a gum.   

    You might also try removing the olive oil and add cyclomethicone.  
  • Chemist77

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 1:42 pm

    Try Cetyl Ricinoleate and Oleyl Erucate by part replacement of some fatty alcohols and maybe complete removal of fatty acid, with this combo you can get rid of jojoba oil as well and probabbly get a velvety satin feel. @Bobzchemist & MakingSkincare, by removing all the fatty alcohols and fatty acid Priya would end up with an unstable emulsion. Arlacel 2121 aint robust enough as shown in few comparative studies, though again I would stick to the ‘trial & check’ method. Please correct me if I am wrong.

    cheers

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 2:48 pm

    @milliachemist, you are correct.

    Croda Formulation:
    Simply Lovely SC-446 
    A light hydrosome cream. ARLAMOL™ PS15E reduces the drag of the cyclomethicone and enhances skin feel, elasticity and moisturization. ARLACEL™ 2121 forms the liquid crystalline lamellar structure of the hydrosome, reducing water evaporation from the emulsion. 
    Ingredients       
    Part A 
    ARLAMOL PS15E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether)   6.00 
    Cyclomethicone 14.00 
    Part B 
    Water 69.55 
    ARLACEL 2121 (Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate)   5.50 
    Glycerin   4.00 
    Xanthan Gum   0.15 
    Part C 
    Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) 
    Propylparaben (and) 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol    0.70 
    Fragrance   0.10 
    Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Nipaguard BPX, Clariant 
     
    Procedure 
    Fully disperse the xanthan gum in water. Add the Glycerin and ARLACEL 2121 to the gum/water mixture and heat up to 75°C. Homogenize for 1 minute. Mix Part A and heat up to 75°C. Slowly add Part A to Part B. Stir down to room temperature. Add Part C once the temperature drops below 40°C. 
  • Chemist77

    Member
    May 21, 2014 at 9:18 pm

    @Bobzchemist Is it ok if cyclomethicone is is added as cool down phase, since cyclomethicone as such is highly evaporative and heating it to 75C would accelerate the evaporation and the final formula may not have as much cyclomethicone as intended.

  • Priya

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 2:43 am

    Thanks to all for your precious & valuable comments & discussions. But I also to think about the cost of the product. As we are in herbal cosmetics we used these chemical RM’s for just emulsification. as we are making this product for Babies so the product should be safest one with no harmful effect to babies skin.
    Is cyclmethicone suitable for baby products?

  • Chemist77

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 3:12 am

    You can try Isoamyl Laurate which is very very smooth and light, am sure it can be used for baby products too.

  • nasrins

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 3:47 am

    which oils and raw materials enhance penetration? and which of them decreas it? 

  • Priya

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 3:53 am

    Yes sure milliachemist.
    I will definitely try all the possiblities which suggested by you n Bobzchemist. Hope to make better innovative and most safest product for babies.

    If I used this  Isoamyl Laurate so is it need to keep other fatty acids (stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol) in formula too?

  • Chemist77

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 4:04 am

    You have to optimize the formula by doing it as same as earlier, then go one step at a time. Since it is a baby product I am sure you can dedicate your time and efforts by optimizing and bringing out the best.
    Yes you can start by keeping the formula same and adding Isoamyl laurate or any other product that seems better. You can follow Bobz advice as well, he is a senior and I am sure his suggestions are better than mine.

  • Priya

    Member
    May 22, 2014 at 4:29 am

    Ye definitely. I will also try ARLAMOL PS15E with Arlacel 2121 suggested
    by Bobz. But Bobz I cant use xanthan gum so is it fine if I replace
    this with Novemer EC - 2

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