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Antioxidants for oils
I want to add rosemary oleoresin leaf extract (ROE) to my facial oil formula. I already have 0.1% tocopherols in there, and want to add ROE for the synergistic antioxidant effects it has with tocopherols. Do I simply add ROE? Or do I reduce the amount of tocopherols when adding ROE for a total of 0.1% antioxidants? And how much ROE should be added?
Facial oil consists of q.s. squalane, 15% black seed oil, and 0.1% mixed tocopherols T50.
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8 Replies
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.1% of MTE is plenty, as would adding the same amount of ROE.
As both beg to be oxidized…store them in the refrigerator…and throw them out after 6 months, unless you are nitrogen blanketing them between uses. Minimize number of times you open the lid.
Generally, I recommend people use .1%….simply for the fact that they struggle to measure quantities less than that….as you can see use rate typical of industry in attached.
If you are buying oils off the street….chances are incredibly high…that they have already been adulterated with MTE. If you are buying oils that originated from ICSC out of Denmark, they were treated with ROE as they were processed.
Good Luck.
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Note…AP will not go clear into straight oils…so do not mix that in…UNLESS you are only making emulsions….where it works perfectly to create a synergy.
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Wouldn’t adding that much antioxidants (0.1% tocopherols + 0.1% ROE) lead to pro oxidation?
If it’s hard measuring out anything less than 0.1%, then would it be better to add ROE directly into the oil stock (in this case, adding ROE directly into the black seed oil)? That way, when I add black seed oil to my final formula, there would also be a small concentration of ROE in there as well. If this is the way to go, then how much ROE should be added to the oil stock? 0.1% or more or less? And should I keep the tocopherols as 0.1% in my final formula?
I’d also like to mention that my original formula (squalane, black seed, and tocopherols) did well in the stability test. The strong scent of black seed oil did dissipate, but did not go rancid. I’ve just recently learned about ROE, and thought adding it would extend the shelf life even further; I also just like to account for all precautions.
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The most brilliant minds in the oil world… use ROE (ICSC). Combined with the fact that adulteration is most likely to occur as MTE…. ROE is a wonderful choice.
At .1% it is improbable…that you are nearing pro oxidation, unless you are buying re-packer oils that have been adulterated. I tend to use those numbers…as I mostly deal with beginners….and getting them to measure less than that….is well…… 😅
So ideally…. life looks like this: You buy fresh sourced oils directly from the source. When they arrive at your facility….you treat them with a half rate of whatever potion you land on. Then off to the refrigerator they go. When you formulate with them…. once again add a half aliquot of your anti-ox potion, to make the total aliquot you have landed on.
This is just my format…. but I’m a little bit of an odd duck. 😉
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If you are looking for hard numbers… 100ppm… is what you need of either of the aforementioned ingredients. 😉 If you are buying from anywhere other than the mfg…..then at least double that….as we must assumed it has been compromised and mishandled.
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I am buying my ingredients from repackers. So I should be adding 200ppm of ROE to my oil stock? And another 200ppm to the final formula? I think I’m confusing myself.
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Since 100PPM of quality material is what you need….. I am suggesting 200PPM of suspect material (total). Hence… 100PPM when it arrives….and 100PPM when you make product…. That gives 200PPM.
Refrigerated storage….is incredibly valuable. Some lipids will solidify under those conditions…just bring them out far enough in advance that they return to their ambient state and consider shaking before using….if you noticed any change in form, due to cold storage.
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Just make sure you use mixed tocopherols or similar. Vitamin E Acetate will do nothing to stop oxidation.
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