• Formulating

  Antioxidant and Stability?

  Posted by Thota on January 8, 2021 at 3:56 pm

  I am planning to make an anhydrous serum with 

  10% Ascorbyl Tertraisopalmitate + 1% Mixed tocopherols.
  
  As Ascorbyl Tertraisopalmitate is already very stable will addition of mixed tocopherols will be of any help.
  Or will it lead to pro oxidation?
  How can we determine if the oil based serum is getting oxidised?

  Also in some products I see 1% Tocopherol Acetate is added to  Ascorbyl Tertraisopalmitate serums. I think that doesn’t provide any benefit for formula protection. But works on skin. 

  Any thoughts?

  Thota replied 4 years, 3 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
• 2 Replies

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  January 8, 2021 at 9:15 pm

  Lots of questions there @Thota
  You are correct: that should not need much antioxidant protection, but a little will help. Just 0.10 - 0.20% mixed tocopherols plus 0.20 - 0.40% UVB absorber (Uvasorb HEB works well) and you should be OK. How to determine oxidation is occurring? Depends on your formula. Discoloration is a common clue. Using 1.0% Vit. E acetate is unnecessary and gummy too. Not recommended. Your instincts are right.

• 

  Thota

  Member

  January 9, 2021 at 2:44 am

  Thanks a lot @chemicalmatt

  Does UVasorb has any role in the formula?
  I am planning to use this serum in the morning, Do you think photo exposure is an issue with this form of Vit C? I am aware the Ascorbyl Palmiate issue but this doesnt seem to have that issue.

  Looking for Color changes in an oil formula may be difficult.
  Is there any test, that can be done to observe for oxidation apart from color changes?

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