Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Anhydrous Oil blend separating after production

  • Anhydrous Oil blend separating after production

    Posted by Yoyin on February 21, 2023 at 1:00 pm

    Hello I need some help with an anhydrous oil blend I am testing out, please see formula below:

    Olive Oil 40%

    Shea Oil 14.5%

    isopropyl myristate 20 %

    Stearic Acid 20%

    Henna Oil 1%

    Palm Kernel Oil 1.3%

    Vitamin E 1%

    Fragrance 2%

    Mica 0.20%

    After a few days I notice a separation at the bottom. The stearic acid was added to create a thicker oil that would suspend the mica to an extent. I melt the Oils and the stearic acid together, cool then rapidly while stirring constantly. I add the isopropyl myristate after cool down. I suspect the separation is coming from the isopropyl myristate and I am not sure how to resolve this. Your assistance will be appreciated.

    Thank you!

    Yoyin replied 1 year, 10 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 21, 2023 at 3:16 pm

    You are advised to DEL the stearic acid and substitute 12-hydroxystearic acid @5.0% in its place. You will see a little more suspension property since you will see much more thickening.

    • Yoyin

      Member
      February 21, 2023 at 5:53 pm

      Thank you very much I have never used 12-hydroxystearic acid before, I will research it and use it as recommended. You think the stearic acid the cause of the separation?

  • MariaSibon

    Member
    February 22, 2023 at 1:38 am

    Is there a specific reason that you blend the isopropyl myristate at the end?

    • Yoyin

      Member
      February 22, 2023 at 10:31 am

      I was trying to avoid product degradation. I know IPM can be hot or cold processed though.

      I will try adding it to the heated phase and see what happens.

      Thanks Maria!

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