Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

  • Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

    Posted by Lisa18 on November 3, 2018 at 2:28 pm

    Good morning!

    What are the incompatibilities of aloe gel with other cosmetic ingredients? Are they visible, or are they over time?

    Lisa18 replied 6 years, 5 months ago 4 Members · 21 Replies
  • 21 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 4:39 pm

    Have never had a problem and I use plenty of aloe vera.

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 4:59 pm

    Not even with polymers?

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 5:00 pm

    In emulsion?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 8:12 pm

    Problems with all types of polymers: Aristoflex AVC, Sepinov EMT, all kind of carbomers (even ultrez 30, if you add more than 10% of aloe), acrylates, GelMaker EMU, even Sepiplus 400 that is supposed to be electrolytes resistant. Aloe Won’t cause lose of viscosity of products based on conventional thickeners (fatty acids, gums etc). I avoid aloe in creams and gels.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 10:20 pm

    In emulsion? No. And I use 100% aloe vera in one emulsion.

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 3, 2018 at 11:16 pm

    But did you use aloe vera gel only with traditional gums and emulsifiers or even polymers?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 8:30 am

    @Belassi, I did many experiments with aloe including the one in the recent discussion about ultrez. I find aloe a very problematic material. I will really appreciate if you can post a formula of the emulsion you mentioned (emulsifiers, thickners and oils, I understand you might not want to post the entire formula)

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 2:58 pm

    I realized organic certified face cream with 7-8% of Organic Aloe vera gel and result is good.in.this case there aren’ t polymers or carbomers because they aren’ allowed by standard

  • belassi

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 3:39 pm

    But did you use aloe vera gel only with traditional gums and emulsifiers or even polymers?

    Traditional emulsifiers or that plus carbomer. I don’t use polymers.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 3:49 pm

    This is a 40% aloe vera gel made with Ultrez-20 just to show you that it is no problem to use Ultrez with aloe etc.
    water 80%
    aloe x10 conc. 4% C6040C
    Ultrez-20 0.8%
    NaOH 0.25%
    Glucam E20 1%
    Actives (d-Panthenol, licorice acid, plant extracts) 14.2%
    - completely stable product

  • belassi

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 4:00 pm

    The formula for a 20% aloe vera cream uses 2% of x10 concentrate = 20% aloe vera. Completely stable, we have examples 3 years old.
    Stabilised with 0.3% carbomer (940) and 0.1% xanthan gum.
    Water 70%.
    The emulsifiers are 3% glyceryl monostearate and 1% polysorbate-20.
    Oils, 6%.
    Active ingredients, 12%.
    Cetyl alcohol and stearic acid, 5%.

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 4:22 pm

    Thank you very much Belassi.
    I realized some formulation similar to yours but I have used polymer instead of carbomer.the sample are 7 months old

  • belassi

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 4:44 pm

    You’re welcome. I get excellent sensorials without needing to use expensive polymers.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 4, 2018 at 8:47 pm

    Thank you @Belassi. I have not tried this combination of emulsifiers and I am curious to try now. Do cetyl alcohol and stearic absorb fast(white foaming) without silicones? made one formula for my friend with honey powder, aloe x200 (20%) oatsilk and other ‘natural goodness’ that I usually don’t use. I had to make it with fatty acids and xantham. It’s a matter of preferences. Some people don’t like polymers and find them sticky. I prefer either polymers alone or a combination of polymers and fatty acids.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 12:06 am

    Do cetyl alcohol and stearic absorb fast(white foaming) without silicones?
    Yes, providing the oils / esters are balanced and well chosen.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 11:07 am

    @Belassi this is a true art :) I heard that it’s possible but never could get to this point. I just add silicones and polymers and never ever use stearic acid in lotions. 

  • EVchem

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 12:40 pm

    Slightly tangent question: but when putting  together the LOI, do you list the aloe as if it is 20%, or by the amount of concentrate that you added? 

  • belassi

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 3:55 pm

    I list the aloe as if it were 20%.

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 3:57 pm

    In creams with high % of Aloe but whitout polymers, do you insert always a buffer system?

  • belassi

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 4:01 pm

    In creams with high % of Aloe but whitout polymers, do you insert always a buffer system?
    Not really, no. There is a small amount of EDTA but only as part of the preservative system.

  • Lisa18

    Member
    November 5, 2018 at 4:33 pm

    I use naOH solution 30% to pH 5.5 but I don’t use a buffer system.Perhaps aloe vera gel ( acidic pH) can decrease final pH?

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner